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  #1  
Old 12-27-2009, 11:48 AM
AlanM AlanM is offline
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Aiwa AD-F810--Cannot eject cassette

I have not used this Aiwa AD-F810 in some time. I cannot eject a cassette. I think the tape snapped. It was an old cassette and I think it happened almost immediately after I hit the play or fast forward button. Going back and forth did not help. I unscrewed and took off the top of the deck but the front part of the deck that houses the cassette mechanism is not open to view. I cannot figure out how to get into the front part. Any suggestions? Have I overlooked a more simple way of ejecting the cassette or getting into the cassette mechanism. The instruction manual is of no help at all.
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Old 12-27-2009, 12:55 PM
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Is the head block still in the raised position? That will prevent the cassette door from opening. You need to reach behind the mechanism and rotate the mode cam by hand to get the head block to drop back down. Then the cassette door should open.
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Old 08-21-2010, 05:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Scorpion8 View Post
Is the head block still in the raised position? That will prevent the cassette door from opening. You need to reach behind the mechanism and rotate the mode cam by hand to get the head block to drop back down. Then the cassette door should open.
Hi guys

I just encountered the same problem adn I'm happy to open my deck. Unfortunately I have no idea what "mode cam" is and where to reach :( Can someone give this poor girl a little more detialed explanation please
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Old 08-21-2010, 08:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Gee12345 View Post
Hi guys

I just encountered the same problem adn I'm happy to open my deck. Unfortunately I have no idea what "mode cam" is and where to reach :( Can someone give this poor girl a little more detialed explanation please
Remove the cover. Behind the tape mechanism you will see a large smooth flywheel driven by a rubber belt that turns the capstan shaft. Somewhere in-between the mechanism will be a few white or yellowish nylon gears. The larger one is generally the mode-cam, and is used to shift the position of various moving parts. Try rotating that with your finger while watching the head block on your deck. You want the head block to lower or drop down below the tape shell to allow the door mechanism to function.
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Old 08-21-2010, 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Scorpion8 View Post
Remove the cover. Behind the tape mechanism you will see a large smooth flywheel driven by a rubber belt that turns the capstan shaft. Somewhere in-between the mechanism will be a few white or yellowish nylon gears. The larger one is generally the mode-cam, and is used to shift the position of various moving parts. Try rotating that with your finger while watching the head block on your deck. You want the head block to lower or drop down below the tape shell to allow the door mechanism to function.
Hi Scorpion thank you so much for your help It was just like you said - the head mechanisam was up. I managed to get the tape out.

But slightly differently: I could not find any of the nylon gears mentioned. I found the big flywheel - well its hard to miss ;) - but there is nothing that is made of nylon that is white-ish. Flywheel is a grey metal and behind it there is a green electric board thing after which nothing is accessible.

Still as I was moving the flywheel, I tested the eject, and finally it ejected the tape so perhaps the fly wheel is the "mode-cam" on this deck? In any case flywheel does control the head mechanisam for sure on 810 - I watched it with door open.

I then tested the same and a different tape, and unfortunately the same thing happened - tapes got stuck with head system up, and it wouldn't eject. And if the play works, it speeds through tape as if on FF. So I had to manually eject the tape via flywheel again and now I'm stuck again not knowing what else is wrong. Could it be the belt? Any ideas?
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Old 08-21-2010, 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Gee12345 View Post
Could it be the belt? Any ideas?
Yes, new belts should cure this problem. If belts are weak (and on these Aiwa decks it is a very common problem) the motor can not turn the flywheel properly and the flywheel can not move the heads in and out correctly.

Cheers

Alex
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Old 08-21-2010, 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by A.N.T. View Post
Yes, new belts should cure this problem. If belts are weak (and on these Aiwa decks it is a very common problem) the motor can not turn the flywheel properly and the flywheel can not move the heads in and out correctly.

Cheers

Alex
Thanks Alex, I was afraid of that...not sure where on earth to find a belt for it, must google it

I feel so emotional about this deck not working now, I had it since bought brand new in 1994 and it worked (and worked and worked!) beautifully ever since. But I have been working it extra hard last few months backing up tons of my old tapes to pc.

Luckily I have an AD-F850 gathering dust somewhere - kept it as a back up - so will plug it in while I sort the belt problem on infamous 810.

Thank you all for help.
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Old 10-22-2015, 01:55 PM
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Unhappy

My AD-F810 is also in the same state. I was getting ready to transfer some old aircheck cassettes. I had my Aiwa connected to my DAT and my DAT into my CD-R burner. REady to burn only to be stopped in my tracks.

This deck replaced a BX-150 that I wore down and it was never quite the same as the Nak but still a good deck.

I'm sad now too.
  #9  
Old 10-23-2015, 06:21 PM
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You'll need to replace two belts - one from the capstan motor to one flywheel, and the second between the two flywheels. F810 and F850 probably use the same belts as I'm almost certain the mechanism is the same (or close enough). This mechanism is a later generation version of their "tried & true" 2-motor drive they have been using since 1983.

Since you will have to remove the whole tape drive to do this properly, while at it, replace the idler too. You may also want to check the lubrication on the shafts of both the supply and take up pinch rollers, though if you remove the supply one, you will need to recalibrate the tape path.

Getting to the cam gear is more involved but if you are ambitious you can carefully remove more parts until you do finally expose it. In my experience though, the cam gear on these mechanisms rarely requires lubrication.

Hope this helps.
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