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  #21  
Old 01-04-2017, 01:08 PM
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I took the supply/takeup spindles off today; whatever lube was on the shafts there before had turned into a sticky, gummy mess, like dried up syrup.

I cleaned this off, put a drop of sewing machine oil on the shafts, and they spin almost effortlessly now. No more squealing, or stuggling during FF/RWD. I also put a drop of oil on the cassette-side of the capstan bearing, and on the drive motor's cassette-side bearing, as well, for good measure.

The second record/playback test looks much better - a lot of the amplitude fluctuation is gone, but there's still some easily audible wow & flutter heard when listening to the 3KHz test tone. The loss of high-frequency response is still there, though... maybe even worse than before.

This test was 30 seconds white noise, 30 seconds 3KHz tone, 30 seconds 10KHz tone. Clearly better than the first test, but not there yet.

I didn't have time to check the power supply voltage levels today; will try to tackle that tomorrow. I might re-cap the main PS electrolytics either way, as they're ~27 years old, and have probably seen better days.
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File Type: jpg TD-1200 test 2 - after lubing spindles and capstan.jpg (20.1 KB, 10 views)
  #22  
Old 01-04-2017, 03:17 PM
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Go Bender. Fix that deck.
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  #23  
Old 01-04-2017, 08:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonny Ramone View Post
Go Bender. Fix that deck.


I thought I'd share some photos, just for reference. The internals look almost identical to the NAD 6340, as lucky pointed earlier in this thread. Compare to his pics in This thread here. Looks like the Carver has a couple of empty sections on the main board, for some reason. The NAD6340 probably has a couple of features not found on the TD-1200. The tape mechanisms appear identical, from what I can tell.





  #24  
Old 01-04-2017, 11:10 PM
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Great pictures. Indeed its missing the CAR section near the input plugs and the DynEQ section beside the 6x peak EQ pots.
I recommened a longer run with a dummy cassette for a few hours. This will fix most of the last issues of W&F through sticky bearings.
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Last edited by lucky; 01-05-2017 at 04:09 AM.
  #25  
Old 01-11-2017, 10:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lucky View Post
Great pictures. Indeed its missing the CAR section near the input plugs and the DynEQ section beside the 6x peak EQ pots.
I recommened a longer run with a dummy cassette for a few hours. This will fix most of the last issues of W&F through sticky bearings.


I've been doing this, unfortunately (even after cleaning the pinch roller and capstan) my W&F problems seem to have gotten worse. On one cassette, a "single" containing about 15 minutes of tape, the W&F is so bad, I am beginning to suspect that it the tape is slipping and being pulled by the takeup reel. I think either the tape is thinner, or the smaller diameter of tape in the cartridge is causing excess torque on the takeup. Or maybe it's a combination of both.

I'm going to short the tape sensor switch, and leave the deck on "play" for maybe 24 hours without a tape, hoping that the sustained mechanical action of the capstan rolling against the pinch roller will help to soften the rubber a little; maybe this will help it grip the tape better. If that fails, from what I've read by perusing this forum, it's probably best to find a new pinch roller.
  #26  
Old 01-11-2017, 10:35 AM
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The rubber of the capstan can be roughened with a wooden nail file, the wooden ones are excellent for this job and could be split into smaller pieces if needed. Then use naphta for cleaning.
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  #27  
Old 01-11-2017, 10:59 AM
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Thanks, I'll try those too and report back with results.
  #28  
Old Today, 01:58 PM
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NAD 6340 restart

With the great help of various NAD 6340 threads on this forum, I've taken apart my NAD 6340 to fix a worsening problem - tape refusing to start up without manual help from me, and eventually the door locking shut. Looks very much like a belt problem so I've replaced that.
When I restarted the machine, it played OK first time after a few odd clunks, but hasn't played since. LEDs light up, the solenoid activates, then nothing and it refuses to respond to play or fast forward buttons.
I strongly suspect I messed up some alignments when I took the drive mechanism apart, in particular when I completely undid one of the two screws to allow me to get the belt behind the capstan. The screw that holds the spring undid completely and some things flopped around.
There are two white plastic parts behind the belt, shown in these photos. One moves when the solenoid activates, but the other one, which is tensioned by the spring behind the screw, seems to do nothing. I have a feeling these two are supposed to interact and lost the required contact due to my tamperings. Does anyone have any idea how they're supposed to fit together, or could it be another problem?
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File Type: jpg NAD 6340 1.jpg (88.6 KB, 1 views)
File Type: jpg NAD 6340 2.jpg (68.4 KB, 0 views)
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