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  #1  
Old 08-11-2017, 09:04 AM
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clamsterdamm clamsterdamm is offline
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Who Can Repair This To An Exact Match?

The more I look at it, the more bothersome it becomes. Listed as near mint on eBay but underneath the wood panels it looks ugly. Seller was dishonest about the condition. It looks to be lightly textured on the plastic portion and metal. The top case has a dent in the back and it's completely scratched on the left side. Is there anyone who can restore this to an exact match? I mean.. Exact..
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Sony TC-K890ES
  #2  
Old 08-11-2017, 09:10 AM
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Metal work is for someone that can do that.
plastic texturing is something that restoration specialists might be able to do. I have a friend that redoes the interior of used cars on the new car lots. These usually under 50K mile cars and trucks have wear to the steering wheels, seat bolsters and door panels and such. He fixes all that to be like new. Key to that is color match and for the panels, grain match. If the material is thin like the coating on some car parts the material can't be heated to accept regraining and melts back instead. But overall, knowing what he is doing, he can turn out some great work.

Don't know exactly what skills you need in someone to repair your unit to NEW condition other than an NOS unit to replace the one you just got. Good Luck.
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  #3  
Old 08-11-2017, 10:52 AM
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Well, I would pay someone top dollar to restore it. It was painted before in the factory so not like it doesn't exist out there. Guessing its a light texture spray. Not really interested in taking it to a body shop.
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Old 08-11-2017, 12:41 PM
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macman007 macman007 is online now
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I'm not 100% sure , but I believe that's powder coating, not paint. You try and paint over powder coating without proper prep, you'll have a mess that'll make you wish you'd just left the wood panels on and didn't stare so hard at the top edge of the cover.

You need to take the bent cover to a sheet metal shop, let them either straighten that one or make a new one from what (I believe) is Zinc coated sheet metal that is dipped sealer primer all over, then powder coated black external finish.

If you are handy, have a soft touch, a good eye and some basic tools, you can make that cover with color and texture more than acceptable yourself. Go and buy an inexpensive powder coating kit. Practice on some junk sheet metal of a similar thickness first to get the color, texture and mix/amount of material needed just how you like it, then have at it.

You can finish bake it in your oven, provided it isn't gas powered. I've done powder coating plenty, and some sheet metal work when I had access to a brake, press, sheer, plus the necessary hand tools. It's not hard or expensive. A decent used powder coating kit used might cost like 75$ with some included colors. You might need to buy the exact color you want. It's easy to do, and you get the superior finish.

A cheap alternative, again DIY, is get the newer textured Poly or Enamel primer and color spray you want. You can get pretty close to OEM, but again metal prep and proper primer coating is essential, and 70% of the battle for a great finish.

I used to do this stuff back when I still had all my tools and the car business, we did custom work and spot repairs on cars and parts all the time. It isn't that hard, if I could learn do it. I'm pretty anal about my belongings too, so if the results pass muster for me, likely they will for 99% of the population..

I'm doing a lot of audio restoration these days, and seriously considering getting a powder coating setup again, as well as the stuff needed to (have) the new silk screening replaced after the finish is restored. I have a local source for dipping, cleaning, even chrome plating or coating a metal chassis if needed.

Last edited by macman007; 08-11-2017 at 01:03 PM.
  #5  
Old 08-11-2017, 11:00 PM
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The ripple in the cover looks to be an easy fix (at least to me). I have made repairs to similar damage using various tricks. Like 2 clean flat pieces of thick aluminum on either side of the cover & using a vice to press on the aluminum which will in turn flatten it out. Or even using smooth wood. If needed putting some clear thick freezer tape over the faces of the aluminum that will contact the cover being flattened to add some scuff protection will help. Or even use some stiff plastic sheets/blocks.

As for the plastic side panel it looks more like a scuff transfer that could be possibly cleaned off. Maybe carefully using one of those Magic Erase pads/sponges. OR using a magnifying glass, a pin & very carefully pic/scrape off the transferred substance.
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Old 08-12-2017, 08:14 AM
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Lance Lawson Lance Lawson is offline
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If the parts are smooth and not textured they are easily repaired. First thing is take the covers silver and black to an auto paint store and have them computer color scan them. They'll be able to make up the colors in a pint or half pint size. They can often mix the paint with the thinners added so all you need to do is spray it. You'll need to smooth the scratches then spot prime and sand smooth with 600 paper. Use 600 paper on all the repaired sections as well.

For the silver cover treat it like a ding on a car. Straighten it best you can then used some body filler to finish it off, prime, sand then paint. If you don't have a spray outfit you can buy little spray devices made by Preval that work not unlike a spray can. Also if you're clever enough you can do all the repair work then take the parts to a spray painter and have them sprayed. Done well you'll have like new results. However it won't be cheap. Paints are expensive these days so figure on $150.00 for the paint and materials and about $125.00 for the spraying if you can find a painter willing to handle it.

When I had my finishing business I did these exact things to decks I found and restored so the procedures and price quotes can be taken pretty literally. If it seems like an involved project it is and most people don't realize that real spray painting is involved and costly

That The cheapest way is do the repairs as described then go to the hardware store and buy some Krylon or other spray paint that matches as close as possible and call it a day. I once did a JVC top case in hardware store paint and it turned out well. It really comes down to how much you want the pieces made perfect.
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  #7  
Old 08-12-2017, 11:32 AM
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The expense is why I like the powder coating, with one project like this one it will par for itself. Buying paint, reducer, thinner, primer/sealer, plus all the sanding, wet sanding, polishing after it's hardened (30 days) it's not cost effective for something like this. IMO the results are much better with less effort and worry that comes with a proper paint project.

A powder coat finish lasts longer looks better and most times when done right is more durable.
  #8  
Old 08-12-2017, 12:18 PM
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If this is the finish I think it is, how that particular Sony finish was done has always been something of a mystery to me. It has a characteristic I've never seen anywhere else, that sharp, fine and very hard texture. Power-coat is too smooth in texture, and I really don't know what it is.

I think you will have to settle for "good enough," in that you'll never quite be able to reproduce what they did. The good news is that there is a lot of crossover in Sony cases, and one top will often fit another unit. Might get lucky with a donor.
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  #9  
Old 08-12-2017, 01:20 PM
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I would recommend researching metal patina stains, gilders paste, and textured pray paints such as rustoleum hammered black. Your local craft or art supply store may be a good option if they cater to artist or sculptures that work with metal. Do an image search on "rustoleum hammered black" as that texture could be a good match.
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  #10  
Old 08-12-2017, 07:38 PM
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Well, I strongly suspect what you are looking at is a baked enamel finish. PS is correct that powder coat will lay flat when heated. There may be some new techniques but you aren't looking at something new. Hammertone finishes don't look like that. Take for example a Kennedy tool box. Very different. In that era, baked enamel was quite popular as lines of parts could be hung, sprayed on a conveyor and run through an open oven fairly quickly.
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Old 08-12-2017, 07:43 PM
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Continuing, that would be a 2 step process of a thinner base for complete coverage and then a splatter gun to apply a thicker texture just prior to running through the oven. Not saying that's what it is but that was a process.
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Dad always said..."If you're going to do it half ass, don't do it all". So It's full ass or nothing for me!
Life is too short to be in a hurry!
SMOKE= The Mystical Magic that makes everything work. Don't Let The Smoke Out. As they say on the Reservation. Oooh, This Not Be Good. Cost Big Heap Wompum!
I got two guns here! I'm not sure which foot is gonna hurt, 'lessen I miss but I 'spect we're gonna find out!
  #12  
Old 08-12-2017, 07:57 PM
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I hadn't notice the ding in the top. Take two pieces of a good flat hardwood, hard maple would be best but oak would/wood (ha) work. Put the metal in a vice with the hard wood pieces against the jaws and clamp down hard. Work it a few times changing location of the ding in relationship to the wood. You'll get it really close. If it were mine I could probably work it out with a couple body hammers on a sheet of lead.
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Dad always said..."If you're going to do it half ass, don't do it all". So It's full ass or nothing for me!
Life is too short to be in a hurry!
SMOKE= The Mystical Magic that makes everything work. Don't Let The Smoke Out. As they say on the Reservation. Oooh, This Not Be Good. Cost Big Heap Wompum!
I got two guns here! I'm not sure which foot is gonna hurt, 'lessen I miss but I 'spect we're gonna find out!
  #13  
Old 08-12-2017, 08:59 PM
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It seriously is a damn shame that the seller was dishonest like that. He stated "near mint" and I always wanted an 890ES. I paid top dollar for that unit and he stated it was serviced and good for years to come. I'm thinking he didn't expect me to open it up to look inside.... Well I'm an audio enthusiast so..... of course I would look inside. This was the one deck that was bought with the intention of being hassle free and something I personally didn't need to work on. Essentially a mint condition unit as advertised on eBay, but underneath the wood panels, absolute opposite. If he listed the unit with and without the wood panels, it would have not been purchased.

I don't have the skill set to lay texture like that and yes, Sony is a mystery and they don't have the customer service to give a damn about previous products or any info on them. No heritage, no pride, just dumped the past. IMO Sony sucks these days and makes BPC products, but their Japan days was what I celebrated. They got rid of their representatives and started making cheap shit. Thanks Sony

A place called Pacific Texturing is writing up a quote for an exact match restoration.
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Last edited by clamsterdamm; 08-12-2017 at 09:53 PM.
  #14  
Old 08-12-2017, 09:25 PM
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You think you're alone? Read about some of my Tascam 122 Mk II exploits. I feel for you. If you think you are alone, you are a fool! I know what you wanted and expected but, in reality there are cons out there. I won my return but It's still a hassle and disheartening especially if you are an honest person and could never fathom being dishonest. I wish you luck and find happiness in the end of this.
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Dad always said..."If you're going to do it half ass, don't do it all". So It's full ass or nothing for me!
Life is too short to be in a hurry!
SMOKE= The Mystical Magic that makes everything work. Don't Let The Smoke Out. As they say on the Reservation. Oooh, This Not Be Good. Cost Big Heap Wompum!
I got two guns here! I'm not sure which foot is gonna hurt, 'lessen I miss but I 'spect we're gonna find out!
  #15  
Old 08-12-2017, 09:29 PM
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I think something that we all need to remember on these listing is that all terms such as "near mint" etc. are all relative. A beat up '67 Chevy truck to some guy in a run down trailer park could be near mint to him but to someone elsewhere it's a beat up POS.
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Dad always said..."If you're going to do it half ass, don't do it all". So It's full ass or nothing for me!
Life is too short to be in a hurry!
SMOKE= The Mystical Magic that makes everything work. Don't Let The Smoke Out. As they say on the Reservation. Oooh, This Not Be Good. Cost Big Heap Wompum!
I got two guns here! I'm not sure which foot is gonna hurt, 'lessen I miss but I 'spect we're gonna find out!
  #16  
Old 08-12-2017, 09:52 PM
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Can you send me a link for your posts? I would like to read them. Paypal is helping getting things sorted out. A partial refund will be going towards the restore. He did not provide pictures of the damage underneath. He was dishonest
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Last edited by clamsterdamm; 08-12-2017 at 09:54 PM.
  #17  
Old 08-12-2017, 10:25 PM
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http://www.tapeheads.net/showthread.php?t=58745
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Dad always said..."If you're going to do it half ass, don't do it all". So It's full ass or nothing for me!
Life is too short to be in a hurry!
SMOKE= The Mystical Magic that makes everything work. Don't Let The Smoke Out. As they say on the Reservation. Oooh, This Not Be Good. Cost Big Heap Wompum!
I got two guns here! I'm not sure which foot is gonna hurt, 'lessen I miss but I 'spect we're gonna find out!
  #18  
Old 08-13-2017, 02:31 AM
mtsaclander mtsaclander is offline
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Hammerite spray paint has different textures that could be close to what Sony used to paint the decks. Haven't used that paint in years though. To fix dents, I have used a mallet and had great success.
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Old 08-13-2017, 09:17 PM
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It is like a baked enamel finish.

I have a powder coating kit from Eastwood. It works good but with the easily available powders you won't get the same finish as the original factory paint. Now if you contact PPG to get one of their powder coat paint chip charts you will have more options. You can get hammer tone powder coat paints in a few different colors.

One option that was available from Eastwood (don't know if it still is) was their Mirror Black powder coat paint (I think it could be the closest to the factory finish). It is different then regular gloss black. A lot more shiny & thinner. The problem is it is VERY hard to shoot. I have found that it is best to do the normal procedure of applying the powder cold & then putting it in the oven to bake. Once it flows out & while it is still hot look over your part & shoot it again to eliminate the thin spots & stick it back in the oven once covered again & the thin spots eliminated to finish baking.
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Old 08-14-2017, 08:36 AM
Jeepwalker Jeepwalker is offline
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Quote:
Continuing, that would be a 2 step process of a thinner base for complete coverage and then a splatter gun to apply a thicker texture just prior to running through the oven. Not saying that's what it is but that was a process.
Yep, I think Ignorant1 has nailed it. As a former automotive painter, you see and do it all over the years. Overspray ..or dry spray like you see on audio equipment is the exact opposite you want to see on a car hood, but you get the same 'dry spray' effect as you'd see on audio gear in areas where you aren't concerned about appearance (like under wheel wells and in door jambs if you don't tape them off well). You can duplicate the look with thinned out paint, add a hardener, and also add some flattening agent to knock down the shine to whatever shine level you want. You don't bake anything. Maybe in a production environment, but you'll have a lot more control with your spray gun and let the hardener do it's trick. If you have a decent air compressor you could buy the products, strip the hood and repaint it. A quart of flattening agent is probably $50, but for paint, you could just use some home center enamel, over-thin it and catalyze it and get the right effect. Anything is possible given enough investment and energy.

I don't believe Sony's finish is so much a technique as most likely the result of cost-cutting measures (to skirt around increasing air emission regulations), or trying to get more covers through the same amount of paint ....and accepting a lower quality finished product and selling it off as a 'unique' or superior effect. From a refinishing standpoint it really isn't superior, it's a lower quality finish. It takes way more energy, precision and investment to produce a high quality shiny appearance on each part time after time, with no imperfections than it does to produce a dry appearance. That's why you'd see really nicely painted cabinets on some of the early 80's equipment where quality and pride WAS more important ...and partly because tape decks were selling for $400-500 each rather than $130 apiece as they were later on. Also, from the manufacturer's standpoint, with a lower finish appearance you count on fewer costly come-backs and defects since a dryer finish tends to hide production and manufacturing imperfections.

Just using store-bought spray CAN products, you might try this to duplicate the exterior at a lower cost with just spray cans: Go to your home improvement center and buy some steel plates ...oh, I don't know, maybe electrical outlet covers that you can use as test plates (to experiment with different finishes till you get the technique you like). Then get some different black paints. Get some Krylon semi-flat, or Rustoleum Satin. Get a few cans. Different mfgrs Satin and semi-gloss, semi-flat have slightly different meanings of what semi-gloss actually is and they vary from slightly less than gloss to a little more than flat. Spray a dark gray (black) primer on first, let it flash off. Then spray a coat of semi-gloss of different types on each plate (2 coats). After the 2nd coat has flashed off and maybe allowed to dry for 2 minutes, experiment with another light spray holding the can some 10-12" away moving at a brisk but even speed. You want that last coat to go on dry and look like the Sony cover. Let it sit for another 5-10 minutes to make sure you have the right amount of dryness on your test plates. Once you can handle the plates, put them on the dashboard of your car in the hot sun for the rest of the day to let them bake out. Give them 4 hours or so. The paint won't get quite as hard or durable as a true hardened enamel (with a catalyzed hardener that you spray out of a spray gun), but it'll get close. Let the plates cool down and monitor the results.

By the way, if you wanted to strip off your deck's finish you could do so with a paint stripper, or possibly soda blasting. Paint stripper is messy but won't build up heat which could possibly warp the cover beyond use. That metal is thin, I would still think that Soda blasting would be ok on it. The dent is just normal dent repair. It doesn't pay to restore just one tape deck cover. If you had like 5 you could do them all at once.

A lot of sony cassette deck housings are the same between different models. I don't know your deck's size, but it might use the same housing as a vanilla deck you can find at goodwill for $5.

Last edited by Jeepwalker; 08-14-2017 at 09:11 AM.
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