My DIY aluminum sub

[jtwrace]

Here ae my two 12" Rythmik servo controlled subs. They are built out of .500" thick 6061 aluminum. It has been hard coat anodized. Hope you enjoy...

[steve_pan]

very nice !

Was the insperation maybe Krell *thumbsup*

Many people dont know this but i think that aluminum is a very good material for subs ...

Whats your next project ?*stirpot*

[jtwrace]

very nice !

Was the insperation maybe Krell *thumbsup*

Many people dont know this but i think that aluminum is a very good material for subs ...

Whats your next project ?*stirpot*

No, Krell was not my insperation. Aluminum is a great material for this as long as it's properly damped. I thought about making a matching Turntable but I've scratched that idea. Next is a RTR machine. *reelspin**reelspin* Can't wait!!!

As for DIY, I'm pretty much done with audio DIY for now....

[Web Police]

Pretty cool looking. Nice work. *thumbsup*

[stuwee]

I always had a thing for toggle switches, especially the black, flat tipped ones on AR equipment from the 70's.

How does moving it away from the corner effect the quality of the bass? What kind of loading/radiating pattern are you using on the top of it?

Welcome to TH, btw!
Craig

[jtwrace]

I always had a thing for toggle switches, especially the black, flat tipped ones on AR equipment from the 70's.

How does moving it away from the corner effect the quality of the bass? What kind of loading/radiating pattern are you using on the top of it?

Welcome to TH, btw!
Craig

Most of the time moving a sub out of the corner is best. I can't have mine in the corner as I have bass traps in the corners. Since I use electrostats, I also have diffusers on the front wall behind the speaker panel. I use REW http://www.hometheatershack.com/roomeq/ and use the RTA (Real Time Analyzer) function to help with the process. I have had great luck using this software setting up my system with subs, speaker location, seating location & acoustic treatments as well as other systems. It just takes time and patience...

As for the pattern, that is a simple pattern that is most used in race car bulkheads (open wheel) of the earlier days. I've always looked at that pattern and thought it was cool. The funny thing is that you want the sub to be heavy, but here I was taking weight out..It's actually a "pocket" that is .275" deep. Minimal weight but has a great effect. I think. *thumbsup* Last, all pieces are glued (with a very special epoxy) and bolted together. The bolts are actually there to hold the unit together as the epoxy dries. It's never coming apart! This sub is about 120lbs so it's not going anywhere.

[Socal Sam]

Holy Batman! Nice gothic design!! Great project.

I am curious about your material choice. I didn't notice if your sub is ported or not. Did you choose aluminum for strength and rigidity or sound? I suspect (but do not know) that aluminum is highly reflective. Are you getting internal standing waves?

Cheers!!!!

[jtwrace]

Holy Batman! Nice gothic design!! Great project.

I am curious about your material choice. I didn't notice if your sub is ported or not. Did you choose aluminum for strength and rigidity or sound? I suspect (but do not know) that aluminum is highly reflective. Are you getting internal standing waves?

Cheers!!!!

The sub is sealed with 2.0 cuft internal volume. As for the material, aluminum is a great material for sound. If one was to make a full range speaker with it, you will need to be more careful with respect to the tweeter b/c of the reflectiveness. You just need to use the material to your advantage and figure out the angles. YG does a very good job of a full aluminum speaker. The price reflects that though. That's the biggest drawback with it. Every process is time consuming and requires a "one shot deal" to machine it. I cross this sub over at 80Hz through an Ashly 3.24CL. If there was any interest I can certainly post a system pic.

[stuwee]

*thumbsup**thumbsup* Thanks for the info on your cool project and, yes, we love pics!! I love 'stats too!