How To Load A Pancake On A Reel

[Des-Lab]

One often mentioned method of using tape in light of todays sky high tape prices is using them in 'pancake' form. Realizing that many of our fellow tapeheads here have no experience using pancakes (known as 'traypacks' in the official jargon), I feel it my duty to explain, step by step...complete with pictures on how to perform this procedure.

It is not difficult nor time consuming. Although first timers may feel a little apprehension, I'm here to tell you to relax. If you follow my instructions, you will find it quite fast and easy to do. The whole process can be done in five minutes or less. Ready? Here we go.

First is shown a pancake of tape. For this demonstration, I used a Quantegy #457 3600' quarter inch 'cake. Also shown is an empty metal reel. It is not quite matching (it is stamped for a #407 tape), but it *IS* the reel I use for these projects and for this tutorial (and for that matter, all transfers), it will suffice just fine. The only tools you will need will be two screwdrivers. One is a standard size Phillips head. The other is a small flathead. Although a standard size flathead could work, the small size and lack of a real workable area means that the smaller head will grip the screws and hold better.
http://x-2000r.angelcities.com/images/tapestuff/Pancake_Start.JPG
The first step will be to separate the flanges from the reel. There are three screws holding the flanges to a single hub. If you are using an un-tampered reel (or one that has been properly assembled), the Phillips screws should all be on one side and the flat heads on the opposite side. Begin by using the Phillips to loosen those screws. Once they are loose, using your other hand, seat the flathead screwdriver on the other side and HOLD it while removing the Phillips head. They should remove fairly easily. Should you try and remove the screws using only one screwdriver, you will find yourself spinning...and spinning...and spinning...as the two screws spin but not unscrew, as the flathead is not a screw per se, but rather, a socket that the Phillipps head bolts down into. This is why you need the two screwdrivers.
http://x-2000r.0catch.com/images/tapestuff/Pancake_Unscrew1.JPG
http://x-2000r.0catch.com/images/tapestuff/Pancake_Unscrew2.JPG
Once you have all three screws and sockets out, remove the top flange and set it along with the hub aside. At this point you can dispose of, or place the hub in a safe place. It will not be needed for re-assembly.
http://x-2000r.0catch.com/images/tapestuff/Pancake_Flanges.JPG
Now comes the critical part. This is the single most important step...this is where you actually put the pancake onto the reel.

On as level of a surface as you can muster, lift the pancake with one hand and slide it out of the bag and grasping it with your other hand. Whatever you do, DO NOT REMOVE THE HOLD DOWN TAG THAT IS HOLDING THE END OF THE TAPE TO THE PANCAKE!!! Doing so WILL result in tape getting spilled all over the floor and result in the ruination of the pancake.

The best way to handle one is exactly as you would a vinyl record: by the center and edges. Do not worry about "spilling" it. The tape pack is wound very tight. As long as you don't drop it on the floor or grip it so tight that your thumb slides off the tape pack dislodging it, you will be fine. Hold it with just enough grip to keep it from dropping. You don't need to apply a "vice of death" grip. I should also mention: don't touch any more of the tape than you absolutely have to. If you grip it right, your thumb will be making contact with nothing more than the very top layer of tape. Although as with cooking, it's best to wash your hands with soap and dry thoroughly before performing this procedure.
http://x-2000r.0catch.com/images/tapestuff/Pancake_Handle.JPG
Next is to actually set the tape onto the flange. It's absolutely crucial that you line it up properly, or else you won't be able to re-assemble the reel. The "new" hub (which is what the tape is loaded on and why you no longer need the one that was in the reel before) will have a total of six cutouts: Three for the reel tables (seen as sort of upside down "U" shaped in the outer diameter of the hub ring) and three screw holes in the surface of the hub itself. As gently as you can (don't drop it), set the pancake on the flange, making sure all of the cutouts are flush with each other.

I should also point out there is no wrong way to do this. The dimensions of "up", "down", "left", "right", "top" or "bottom" do not apply here. Once on the reel, the tape WILL work. If the tape ends up facing the "wrong" way" when you are done here, you can either load it on the deck and "rewind" it or else flip the reel 180 degrees and voíla! Ready to go.

http://x-2000r.0catch.com/images/tapestuff/Pancake_Set.JPG
http://x-2000r.0catch.com/images/tapestuff/Pancake_On_Flange.JPG
At this point, the "hard" part is over. All you need to do is re-assemble the reel. Basically, it's simply performing the above disassembly in reverse order.

Begin by setting the other flange back over the tape and lining up all of the cutouts and screw holes. Then drop one of the Phillips screws back in one of the screw holes and locking it in on the other side with a flathead socket and screw back together for each of the three holes. Only this time, HOLD the Phillips head and turn with the flathead. Set the three screws first and then once they are on, go back and torque them down. Get them snug and tight. Enough to where they won't work their way loose. But not so tight that you strip...or worse...shear them off.
http://x-2000r.0catch.com/images/tapestuff/Pancake_Flange_Cover.JPG
http://x-2000r.0catch.com/images/tapestuff/Pancake_Screw.JPG
http://x-2000r.0catch.com/images/tapestuff/Pancake_Tighten.JPG
Congratulations! You have now successfully loaded a pancake and are ready to begin recording. NOW you can remove the hold down tag. At this point, you can either splice leaders on (strongly recommened) or else load the reel and tape directly onto your deck and begin using it. Either way, it would be good advice to trim and dispose of the first layer of tape as this is the surface that you handled and might be contaminated with thumb prints. It is recommended but not required to complete at least a one-way high speed (fast forward or fast rewind) of the tape prior to actual recording. This will loosen up the pack and even out any possible surface irregularities that could compromise your recording.
http://x-2000r.0catch.com/images/tapestuff/Pancake_Finished.JPG

Hope this little post helps. Enjoy.

[douglas787]

Let me see you do that with a Maxell reel. Those screws are locked in so tight I drill them out to get those flanges of the hub.

[Des-Lab]

Ouch! I would not recommend performing this procedure on a Maxell reel, and for the reason you mention. You'd definitely be better off getting an old junker Ampex reel (usually available for $10 or less) since those are always much easier to take apart, loading the pancake and then doing an on-deck transfer into the Maxell reel once the tape is loaded. From there, you can play the tape between any two reels you like. And just keep the Ampex reel for the loading.

[Scorpion8]

Question Matt -- Since 10" x 1/2" reels are soooo cheap on eBay, if you disassemble the reel and load a 1/4" pancake, do you thus end up with a 1/4" reel? There's no real difference ("reel" difference?) between a 1/2" reel and a 1/4" reel except for the insert, right?

[Des-Lab]

As long as you have a set of quarter inch screws to reassemble it, no.

I've had that thought before too. To buy a ½" reel then take it apart and reload it with ¼" tape. It is almost a perfect plan till I realized that I would not be able to put it back together unless I had the shorter screws.

So you could either get a parts "donor" ¼" reel or else order a hardware set from USR.

[Scorpion8]

As long as you have a set of quarter inch screws to reassemble it, no.

I've had that thought before too. To buy a ½" reel then take it apart and reload it with ¼" tape. It is almost a perfect plan till I realized that I would not be able to put it back together unless I had the shorter screws.

So you could either get a parts "donor" ¼" reel or else order a hardware set from USR.

A Dremel tool with cut-off wheel will make short work of "shortening" screws, or maybe a decent hardware store might have suitable replacements.

[Des-Lab]

It could. But IMO that would be far more trouble than it's worth. A set of screws will set you back all of $2.75.

Also keep in mind that the "screws" aren't really a screw and nut. It's more of a threaded bolt and socket set. Maybe your local Home Depot will have them, but I'd be surpised if they did.

[Scorpion8]

There ya go, problem solved. Or am I missing anything?

[Des-Lab]

Nope. That should be it. The flanges are otherwise the same gauge between the sizes. So throw on the hub/pancake, have the shorter hardware set handy and you should be good to go.

So how about that FrankenScotch 499. *scratchchin*

[Scorpion8]

So how about that FrankenScotch 499. *scratchchin*

Still waiting to get my RS-1506 back from the tech. The anticipation is building .....

[johnss]

Question Matt -- Since 10" x 1/2" reels are soooo cheap on eBay, if you disassemble the reel and load a 1/4" pancake, do you thus end up with a 1/4" reel? There's no real difference ("reel" difference?) between a 1/2" reel and a 1/4" reel except for the insert, right?

and the length of the 3 screws that hold the flanges to the hub.............

[igirl]

You should have seen me this week doing exactly the opposite of this - undoing reels and stripping the tape off of the hubs! *devil*

[Lance Lawson]

I'm going to be doing something a little different with a pancake. I want to take the 3600' pancake onto 3 7" reels of 1200' I've been considering exactly h ow to engineer the pancake to allow spooling onto the 7' reels.

[shotwell]

Buy a 10" machine! *lmao*

Sorry, couldn't resist.

[Lance Lawson]

Buy a 10" machine! *lmao*

Sorry, couldn't resist.

Well I'm working on that!

[Des-Lab]

That's actually not far off. Without a deck capable of playing 10" reels, you are going to find that to be one hell of a challenging task. I have no idea how you would pull that off short of sitting there and manually unspooling one reel and manually taking up tape with the other.

Probably the least cumbersome way to achieve that task would be to thread the tape across the heads and into the takeup reel. Then fool the shutoff arms into thinking a tape is loaded by taping or propping them into the 'up' position. Then hit 'play' and stand there with the 10" reel suspended in midair with a pen or pencil or planting stake and let it pull the tape in. If you are loading off a non-NAB hub, this should be relatively easy since you can just put the pen in the center hole. But if you are using a NAB hub, it's going to be a bumpy ride three times per revolution as the reel jumps from the inner diameter of the hub to try and follow the three keyways intended for the hub adaptor. Then, to get equal time, you would need to time the whole thing. You will need a stopwatch or a deck with a digital time counter. A belt driven counter (which usually runs off the supply reel anyway and will therefore be inoperative) will be useless because it's increments are based on reel speed. And the reel starts slowly at first and increases speed as the reel empties and the tape pack diameter get shorter. In other words, if you reset it to 0000 at the beginning of the tape, the time to get to 0200 might be twenty minutes. But to get from 0201 to 0400 might be just fifteen minutes. And so on and so forth.

Good luck.

[Pentium100]

However, if the tape counter is linear (turning from some roller that touches the tape; one of my tape decks has it) or works from the takeup reel (two of my tape decks) you can make the reels have approximately the same amount of tape. It does not matter if the counter says "1541" or "9001" when the takeup reel is full, when it says the same again for the other reel that reel will have the same amount of tape.

Also, for reels with NAB hub, use some thick cylinder instead of a pen. Or even better, get a bearing (with the outer diameter about the same or a bit smaller) than the diameter of the hole in the reel. and stick whatever handle inside it.

[Lance Lawson]

That's actually not far off. Without a deck capable of playing 10" reels, you are going to find that to be one hell of a challenging task. I have no idea how you would pull that off short of sitting there and manually unspooling one reel and manually taking up tape with the other.

Probably the least cumbersome way to achieve that task would be to thread the tape across the heads and into the takeup reel. Then fool the shutoff arms into thinking a tape is loaded by taping or propping them into the 'up' position. Then hit 'play' and stand there with the 10" reel suspended in midair with a pen or pencil or planting stake and let it pull the tape in. If you are loading off a non-NAB hub, this should be relatively easy since you can just put the pen in the center hole. But if you are using a NAB hub, it's going to be a bumpy ride three times per revolution as the reel jumps from the inner diameter of the hub to try and follow the three keyways intended for the hub adaptor. Then, to get equal time, you would need to time the whole thing. You will need a stopwatch or a deck with a digital time counter. A belt driven counter (which usually runs off the supply reel anyway and will therefore be inoperative) will be useless because it's increments are based on reel speed. And the reel starts slowly at first and increases speed as the reel empties and the tape pack diameter get shorter. In other words, if you reset it to 0000 at the beginning of the tape, the time to get to 0200 might be twenty minutes. But to get from 0201 to 0400 might be just fifteen minutes. And so on and so forth.

Good luck.

I'll most likely motorize the whole affair without the tapedeck. I've hand spooled reels before and it wasn't fun then and less fun now. But the price of the pancake is right and worth the effort. If it works out and is easy to do I may document the process here.

[igirl]

Probably the least cumbersome way to achieve that task would be to thread the tape across the heads and into the takeup reel. Then fool the shutoff arms into thinking a tape is loaded by taping or propping them into the 'up' position. Then hit 'play' and stand there with the 10" reel suspended in midair with a pen or pencil or planting stake and let it pull the tape in. If you are loading off a non-NAB hub, this should be relatively easy since you can just put the pen in the center hole. But if you are using a NAB hub, it's going to be a bumpy ride three times per revolution as the reel jumps from the inner diameter of the hub to try and follow the three keyways intended for the hub adaptor.

Just don't get impatient and hit FF/RW to speed things up - it can become a disaster!!

Also, on NAB hubs - look around for an aerosol can or something close to the size of the opening to jury rig up for a source spool.

Ideally, you would also be able to apply gentle resistance so that the take up isn't loose. The only way I can think of doing that without extensive creativity/rigging, is manually with your fingers.

[ghn5ue]

Lay the deck down and use a turntable to support the pancake. You will have to prop it up on books or something to get it level with the top of the deck. Thread the tape through the heads and capstan as normal and hit play. 1200 ft of 1 mil tape will fit on a large hub 7 inch reel. TDK used to sell tape that way, as they didn't seem to make 1.5 mil tape at the time.

[Lance Lawson]

Lay the deck down and use a turntable to support the pancake. You will have to prop it up on books or something to get it level with the top of the deck. Thread the tape through the heads and capstan as normal and hit play. 1200 ft of 1 mil tape will fit on a large hub 7 inch reel. TDK used to sell tape that way, as they didn't seem to make 1.5 mil tape at the time.
Excellent! My turntable needs a belt so it freewheels.

[Old Busted Hotness]

I've always just loaded the pancake on the supply reel and hit FF.

[eddisc]

A quicker and CLEANER way (ZERO touching of the tape!) to do w/10" spools is to simply place a *reelstop on top of the cake - observing the alignment of holes, while the cake is still resting on the packing (styrofoam). Place a hand under styrofoam and other hand on top of *reelstop. Now invert. Remove styrofoam. Place second *reelstop on top of cake and assemble as described above. You never have to touch the tape or risk 'squeezing' it too hard & ending with a pile of money on the floor. *reelspin**reelspin*

[tapehead ted]

A quicker and CLEANER way (ZERO touching of the tape!) to do w/10" spools is to simply place a *reelstop on top of the cake - observing the alignment of holes, while the cake is still resting on the packing (styrofoam). Place a hand under styrofoam and other hand on top of *reelstop. Now invert. Remove styrofoam. Place second *reelstop on top of cake and assemble as described above. You never have to touch the tape or risk 'squeezing' it too hard & ending with a pile of money on the floor. *reelspin**reelspin*

This is how the fellow who's walked me through the rest of my reel-to-reel learning curve recommended I try it- possibly because I'm afraid of touching my cartons of pancakes, and said so. I'm not planning on using them myself, but apparently they're worth considerably more on the market with reels, and I'm hearing that empty 10.5" reels that can be unscrewed are fairly rare.

I have a bunch of reels, same brand and everything, only they happen to be holding tapes... archives of my own work, nothing I'm using day to day. The contents of the reels are outtakes, not really a disaster if I lost something, but future generations might have their hearts broken! My friend tells me I could store the archives as pancakes (labelled!), and when the archaeologists discover this unsuspected treasure trove they could load them onto reels.

Right now the pancakes are untouched in the original packaging, and there must be something to be said for that. I could potentially sell them for more to a much larger market if I mounted them up on reels, but that's a lot of work and maybe unnecessary.

Any thoughts on this situation?