Akai's GX heads - quality and life expectancy

[johncool]

Just wondering... those glass and crystal heads that Akai praised so much. Do they really last that long? Also, were they prone to failure?

My Akai GX-630 has a better recording quality than my Teac 2300. I know that this is also due to wear of the heads of my Teac (nothing serious, but still the wear is visible).

Any opinions?

Oh... on playback the Teac beats the crap of out Akai... *grin*

[niklasthedolphin]

The GX heads last very, very long but on the down side they never had the sound that was able to bring them to any "well thought about" studio or reference recording.

"dolph"

[Jay Pemberton]

Funny thing....I also have an Akai GX 630 D and a Teac 2300S, and the playback quality of the Akai from other tapes is quite good but its recording amps can't seem to get enough current into the record head for good quality recording. And my Akai is virtually mint condition, whereas my 2300S is one with rather worn heads, but on a good day it's recording quality blows the Akai away, no contest. It sounds great playing back what I record on it.

[johncool]

Hmm...

I don't seem to have that kind of problem while recording with the Akai. In fact, it has a much "full" sound than my Teac. But then again, my Teac probably isn't calibrated properly. But while monitoring recordings on both recorders, the sound coming from Akai is pretty equal to the source (only losing on very high frequencies) whereas Teac loses on low frequencies...

Something to think about.

If it's bad calibration is it an easy job to do?

[Scorpion8]

I have an Akai with the GX heads also, the GX-267D. It makes recordings that I can't distinguish from the source material, and sounds superb despite what others think. Everybody has an opinion and is entitled to it, but I like them. If it sounds good to you, enjoy it. For Jay, I'd suggest you check your transistors inside as some of the Akai's have a tendency to have their transistors fail, as mine did. 2SC458's IIRC. A much smarter tech than me helped me tshoot them and replace.

[johncool]

Humm...

My Akai puts a little nuance on the low frequencies. It's most audible through my Sennheiser headphones but not through the speakers in my amplifier because it's really minimal. But surely I can distinguish the source from tape while recording with headphones, so I can't say that it's identical but close enough.

On my Teac as I said on another thread it really pumps up the high frequencies, but all I can think of is a bad bias alignment. Does the Teac 2300-SX have any internal bias regulators?

[appiller]

Just to throw in another opinion:
I own 3 AKAI Decks (GX 635 DB - GX 636 - GX 646) - my opinion on those heads is : even after all those years (30 years +) and in my case with my maschines 1000´s of hours of play back with numerous brands of tapes - some of them also very old ones - the heads look like new! Shiny and with no visible wear (after cleaning of course [with isopropyl alc. which I do regularly after ~ 15 hrs of playback]). The sound experience is fine with me.

Now I own another two reel to reel decks. The SONY TC 755A comes close to the AKAI´s when it comes to heads - but still those heads (the SONY´s) are not in the same flawless state compared to the AKAI´s.

The TECHNICS RS 1700 heads show a terrific amount of degeneration compared to the AKAI´s. The playback is still ok though.

So there really is a considerable amount of truth in the old AKAI Commercials about the endless life of the GX Heads

(my opinion)

Greetings!

[PrimozS]

Hello,

as a newbie here + fresh owner of my first Akai r2r (GX-255) I have one Q concerning Akai:
- I have a "low noise/wide range" switch on my Akai - what's the purpose of that switch? Or maybe a bit rephrased Q: what is the difference between low noise and wide range tape? What e.g. is Maxell UD or XL I?

[johncool]

Maxell UD and the XL types (I and II) are low-noise tapes. Other examples of low-noise tapes include: TDK Audua, LX and GX. These are the brands I have in 90% of the reels I have.

The other 10% I own are very old tapes the belong to my father (circa 1970-1975) including some tapes from Philips that are not low-noise tapes.

[PrimozS]

Aha, I get it - it's not an issue of beeing typeI/typeII tape - for type II must r2r have another option - "EE".

Btw - why it's better to use isopropyl than ethanol for cleaning?

[Des-Lab]

"EE" stood for Extra Efficiency.

What THAT meant, I haven't a clue. It was, for all intents and purposes, the reel to reel equivalent of Type II/High Bias. As I understand it, the TDK SA and Maxell XLII EE tapes were the exact same tape as used in their cassette counterparts. So in effect, it wasn't an entirely NEW formulation per se. It was using existing technology but applying it to reel to reel decks. It was an unsuccessful attempt at reviving interest in the format.

With the benefit of 20/20 hindsight, EE made absolutely no sense. With cassette tapes (Type II and IV Metal, and even some top shelf Type I's) rapidly closing the gap on open reel in terms of fidelity, making an even MORE expensive reel to reel was a major strategic blunder. EE tape, for all its hype, fell pretty short between what was promised versus how the tapes actually performed. They are no better or slighly WORSE than conventional oxide at 7 1/2" ips and break even or marginally better at 3 3/4. But factoring in the cost differential, it just wasn't worth it.

As a rule (and there are and were exceptions), any tape specifically marked "Low Noise/High Output" was almost always the low(er/est) end of the product line. Why that was, I don't know. But the high performance tapes always had monikers like "for professional use", "for mastering use", "Extended Range", and so forth.

Another safe rule to go by is that NO "low end" tape I know of was back coated. If you are unsure of a tapes place in the quality hierarchy, the presence of a back coating (dull, dark charcoal gray or black, coarse coating on the 'back' or outer side of the tape) indicates that it was a middle or high grade only. Of course, some of those tapes later succumbed to the effects of sticky shed. But we'll have that discussion another day.

As far as "Bias", "EQ", and other settings, most decks came with 'recommended' settings for different tapes. But I recommend the most basic and logical of tests: try a sample tape at the different settings, see what sounds best, and then stick with it. It won't hurt the tape or the deck to experiment.

[johncool]

"EE" stood for Extra Efficiency.

What THAT meant, I haven't a clue. It was, for all intents and purposes, the reel to reel equivalent of Type II/High Bias. As I understand it, the TDK SA and Maxell XLII EE tapes were the exact same tape as used in their cassette counterparts. So in effect, it wasn't an entirely NEW formulation per se. It was using existing technology but applying it to reel to reel decks. It was an unsuccessful attempt at reviving interest in the format.

With the benefit of 20/20 hindsight, EE made absolutely no sense. With cassette tapes (Type II and IV Metal, and even some top shelf Type I's) rapidly closing the gap on open reel in terms of fidelity, making an even MORE expensive reel to reel was a major strategic blunder. EE tape, for all its hype, fell pretty short between what was promised versus how the tapes actually performed. They are no better or slighly WORSE than conventional oxide at 7 1/2" ips and break even or marginally better at 3 3/4. But factoring in the cost differential, it just wasn't worth it.

As a rule (and there are and were exceptions), any tape specifically marked "Low Noise/High Output" was almost always the low(er/est) end of the product line. Why that was, I don't know. But the high performance tapes always had monikers like "for professional use", "for mastering use", "Extended Range", and so forth.

Another safe rule to go by is that NO "low end" tape I know of was back coated. If you are unsure of a tapes place in the quality hierarchy, the presence of a back coating (dull, dark charcoal gray or black, coarse coating on the 'back' or outer side of the tape) indicates that it was a middle or high grade only. Of course, some of those tapes later succumbed to the effects of sticky shed. But we'll have that discussion another day.

As far as "Bias", "EQ", and other settings, most decks came with 'recommended' settings for different tapes. But I recommend the most basic and logical of tests: try a sample tape at the different settings, see what sounds best, and then stick with it. It won't hurt the tape or the deck to experiment.

Thanks for your detailed explanation Des :)

I have a handful of "extended range" tapes, but when using my Akai I've never noticed any difference when switching from "low noise" to "wide range" or vice-versa when recording. On the other hand, on my Teac it's the complete opposite, the equalization is pretty different from one setting to another.

[TandbergRay]

Hello All,

I have had about 4-5 AKAI Reelto Reel decks. 2 of them were the GX-747...one was the DBX Version and also the GX-646 and GX-636....also a GX-630DB. I still have an AKAI GX-747 DBX Black Version...and the sound quality is phenominal. I have 2 tandbergs, completely restored, new heads and all....and I have to tell you, the AKAI GX-747 DBX is always right with them, excellent sound quality, and heads look incredible as far as no signs of wear. I also have the TEAC X-2000R BL which is also completely restored, and biased for the Most Modern Tape Types available. Its a close call, but I think I prefer the sound of the AKAI GX-747 to that of the TEAC X-2000R.....I once sold my AKAI GX-630DB to a guy in Florida. He wanted a backup deck to a Pioneer or Sony that he had, and loved. I told him that this AKAI GX-630DB just might end up being his top deck, and not the Backup. He has emailed me several times a year since, and tells me that the AKAI is his number 1 deck, and has continued to perform flawlessly ever since he bought it from me. So, for reliability and sound, the AKAI's are very good decks indeed. The Heads are an extra bonus. TEAc Heads seem to wear rather fast compared to some other manufacturers, but luckily they are still available for many models. Ray

[stripedcat99]

Hello All,

I have had about 4-5 AKAI Reelto Reel decks. 2 of them were the GX-747...one was the DBX Version and also the GX-646 and GX-636....also a GX-630DB. I still have an AKAI GX-747 DBX Black Version...and the sound quality is phenominal. I have 2 tandbergs, completely restored, new heads and all....and I have to tell you, the AKAI GX-747 DBX is always right with them, excellent sound quality, and heads look incredible as far as no signs of wear. I also have the TEAC X-2000R BL which is also completely restored, and biased for the Most Modern Tape Types available. Its a close call, but I think I prefer the sound of the AKAI GX-747 to that of the TEAC X-2000R.....I once sold my AKAI GX-630DB to a guy in Florida. He wanted a backup deck to a Pioneer or Sony that he had, and loved. I told him that this AKAI GX-630DB just might end up being his top deck, and not the Backup. He has emailed me several times a year since, and tells me that the AKAI is his number 1 deck, and has continued to perform flawlessly ever since he bought it from me. So, for reliability and sound, the AKAI's are very good decks indeed. The Heads are an extra bonus. TEAc Heads seem to wear rather fast compared to some other manufacturers, but luckily they are still available for many models. Ray


I share your enthusiasm for the GX-747. I have had mine since about Nov '06. It was apparently purchased and used to record one reel of tape, then put away. Whatever happened, the inside was clean when I received it, so I tend to believe the seller. I generally use an outboard dbx type II unit with it, although I probably wouldn't have to. It always interests me to see how Teac and Akai handled their "last and best" R2R machines in terms of design. The Teac, of course, still has parts available- which is a huge plus. Akai, well I just hope nothing breaks. But at least the heads dont seem to be likely to wear out!

[TandbergRay]

Well, TEAC had the last opportunity. Their last machine was designed after the GX-747 was already in production. Also the TEAC X-2000R was in production all the way up to the 1990's sometime. However, the Design of the AKAI GX-747 blows it away. Far nicer looking deck, also built like a Tank, with all direct drive motors, and AC Motors at that, not DC, which is a weak point of the TEAC X-2000R. So, dont worry about the AKAI breaking, because there is alot of First Rate Tech Shops right here on the Internet in the US and abroad that specialize in AKAI GX series Repair and Restorations. So, there are some parts still available. In fact there is a Guy on Ebay, from Italy, very reliable that is making New Parts for these machines, such as Pinch Rollers, Lamps, and the Special Little Belts that control the Automatic Tape Tensioner Arms, which seem to be the only thin g that ever goes wrong with these in time. So, pretty much anything is available. Even the Transistors that plagued the AKAI GX-625 or 635.....was a bad batch of Transistors, many machines suffered from it, but its already been nailed down, and found out about, so there is a repair for that as well. But that didn't effect the GX-747. All in all I feel the AKAI is the Better designed machine, for lastability as well as looks. Very Little maintenance involved. Good to hear from you. Ray

[stripedcat99]

Well, TEAC had the last opportunity. Their last machine was designed after the GX-747 was already in production. Also the TEAC X-2000R was in production all the way up to the 1990's sometime. However, the Design of the AKAI GX-747 blows it away. Far nicer looking deck, also built like a Tank, with all direct drive motors, and AC Motors at that, not DC, which is a weak point of the TEAC X-2000R. So, dont worry about the AKAI breaking, because there is alot of First Rate Tech Shops right here on the Internet in the US and abroad that specialize in AKAI GX series Repair and Restorations. So, there are some parts still available. In fact there is a Guy on Ebay, from Italy, very reliable that is making New Parts for these machines, such as Pinch Rollers, Lamps, and the Special Little Belts that control the Automatic Tape Tensioner Arms, which seem to be the only thin g that ever goes wrong with these in time. So, pretty much anything is available. Even the Transistors that plagued the AKAI GX-625 or 635.....was a bad batch of Transistors, many machines suffered from it, but its already been nailed down, and found out about, so there is a repair for that as well. But that didn't effect the GX-747. All in all I feel the AKAI is the Better designed machine, for lastability as well as looks. Very Little maintenance involved. Good to hear from you. Ray

Good points! Funny you should mention the chap in Italy, as I just ordered a spare pinch roller and belts from him yesterday!
No doubt, the 747 is built like a , uh, well, 747....*Hi5*

[TandbergRay]

Scorpion,
You are exactly right. There was issues with a bad batch of transistors that affected alot of the AKAI Models, but not so much the GX-747. I have had so many Reel to Reels, and the top models of each brand. All were calibrated and modified, adjusted, etc.....and the GX-747 blows away just about every other machine, the heads are great. I have 2 Tandbergs TD20A-SE machines, all newly reconditioned by an expert, and the AKAI GX-747 sounds just as good, plus the benefits of the counters and DBX, autoreverse, etc...it even beats my TEAC X-2000R which is also calibrated, and much newer. Many people here have Ebay AKAI units, that were bought as is, and never paid the peoper money to have the machines properly restored to factory specs, or transistors checked out. Ray





I have an Akai with the GX heads also, the GX-267D. It makes recordings that I can't distinguish from the source material, and sounds superb despite what others think. Everybody has an opinion and is entitled to it, but I like them. If it sounds good to you, enjoy it. For Jay, I'd suggest you check your transistors inside as some of the Akai's have a tendency to have their transistors fail, as mine did. 2SC458's IIRC. A much smarter tech than me helped me tshoot them and replace.

[Des-Lab]

No question the GX-747 is/was a fantastic machine that would run circles around just about every other deck out there at the time.

However, it did have one fatal design flaw: the motorized tension arms.

That was a feature that never should've been incorporated. It served no purpose aside from flair and adding unneccessary complexity and additional motors and circuitry. Were it not for that, I would probably give that deck the thumbs up as #1 consumer deck of all time.

I know.

I once had one.

And I sorely regret getting rid of it. It was a gorgeous deck that I loved using.

But the thing is. When those belts or motors go out, an otherwise perfectly functional deck becomes helpless and inoperable. There is no workaround. If those arms don't work, then the DECK don't work.

And so painfully, I sold the deck basically for scrap because I had to advertise it as non-working. Even though the only thing wrong with it was the tension arm motor belts had broke. I had neither the time, nor expertise nor access to parts to make the repair.

[TandbergRay]

Hi Des,
No question, I unserstand what you are saying. However, in 99%of the cases of the belts/Orings going bad, the problem with the arms, is that they continually go up and down, instead of just resting in their stop area, for tape loading. So, you can hold them down, while you load the tape, and then they will behave as normal, once they make contact with the tape that is loades to play/record.

The guy in Italy, and someone else now sells a kit, for repair of these arms, with the 2 belts/Orings...and washers. There is an excellent tutorial on doing the actual repair/replacement on AudioKarma by a guy named Rolf, or WolfBob, I forget which guy, but both were experts at these thinggs, Wolfbob rebulit by TEAC X2000R to better than Factory specs, he was an excellent engineer. I think he put the step by step, with photos of replacing the 747 tension arms. Mine works flawlessly, with no problems, but I understand your point. It was the days of the Japanese adding ever possible benefit/feature that you could add to any Reel to Reel, Turntable, Cassette Deck...etc...whereas the Europeans like Revox and Tandberg stayed more simplistic, concentrating more on the sound, Transport, and Electronics overall. They didn't even go for the Autoreverse. And their decks had amazing sound quality, and build quality. I still have the 2 Tandbergs, and my TEAC X2000R Black....and AKAI GX-747 Vlack DBX units. I love them all. I am addicted to this stuff. I too once sold a silver 747, years ago, I really wanted the black one, so luckily I got this 747 from a fellow member, who kept it mint, and I had it completely gone over and calibrated by my Tech, to bring to better than factory specs. Its noice looking at a TEAC X2000R Black, and an AKAI GX-747 Black DBX sitting side by side atop my stereo racl, with my Turntable in between, a VPI HW19 MK.IV. Ray





No question the GX-747 is/was a fantastic machine that would run circles around just about every other deck out there at the time.

However, it did have one fatal design flaw: the motorized tension arms.

That was a feature that never should've been incorporated. It served no purpose aside from flair and adding unneccessary complexity and additional motors and circuitry. Were it not for that, I would probably give that deck the thumbs up as #1 consumer deck of all time.

I know.

I once had one.

And I sorely regret getting rid of it. It was a gorgeous deck that I loved using.

But the thing is. When those belts or motors go out, an otherwise perfectly functional deck becomes helpless and inoperable. There is no workaround. If those arms don't work, then the DECK don't work.

And so painfully, I sold the deck basically for scrap because I had to advertise it as non-working. Even though the only thing wrong with it was the tension arm motor belts had broke. I had neither the time, nor expertise nor access to parts to make the repair.

[akaihead]

Okay, new guy stupid question... is there a source for new r2r tape? Is it "spensibe"? I have no idea, and would like to know where to purchase them Does the "club" have a supplier? *reelspin**hope**reelspin*

[Fast Forward]

I scrounge E-bay for new/old Un-opened Maxell or even decent used,, some Reel guys shy away from the older stuff but I,ve never had a problem,,but I think my old Teac would even record Duct Tape*reelspin**reelspin*

[westgate]

Okay, new guy stupid question... is there a source for new r2r tape? Is it "spensibe"? I have no idea, and would like to know where to purchase them Does the "club" have a supplier? *reelspin**hope**reelspin*
http://www.splicit.com/recording_tape.html
and/or
http://usrecordingmedia-store.stores.yahoo.net/opreelrectap.html

and welcome to TH!

[larryderouin]

I've got a GX-365D with a couple thousand hours on it. BTW This is supposedly the 1st deck AKAI put the GX Heads on. No discernable wear on the playback and record heads. The Erase head has a groove in it, but not the playback and record heads. My newer GX-370D (3 years newer) with about 1000 hours on it, same deal. My 2 GX 4000D's show no wear either.

Larry

[Authorjim]

I am new to this forum and new at buying and using vintage tape decks. Hello everyone. I have an Akai GX-280 in mint cosmetic condition that needs mechanical work.

I just purchased a GX-747 and need some help. All functions work, plays and records very well. The tape tension arms are moving on their own and I would like to fix them. I ordered some belts off ebay, he says they are the right cross section belts. I also contacted an other place that was suggested on one of the forums.

Four questions:
When the arms are moving and or need new belts, does it put extra strain on the tape?

Somebody mentioned a tutorial on changing these belts, I can't find it, any links available would help.

Does anyone else have links to buy the belts and other Akai parts?

Does anyone know of a good service shop in the Long Island, New York area?

Thanks for the help.*reelspin*

Jim

[TandbergRay]

Hello Jim,
I know for a fact now, that the AKAI Tension Belts can be purchased from Turntableneedles.com They are now a square cut profile belt, and have been sucessfully used by several members of Audio Karma, and some other forums I go to. I provided a link to them in a Current thread in the Tape Section Forum, at Audio Karma, that was titled BOGUS AKAI TENSION ARM BELT KITS.....Apparently someone on Ebay is selling a Kit, that is not the proper elasticity, or circumference, and can actually damage the motors, putting strain on them. Im not sure of the Ebay Seller, noone is mentioning any names. So, the safest bet, is Turntableneedles.com these have been proven the proper belts.

As for the extra strain on tape, I am not aware of that happening at all. Noone has said that, of any of the Tech's I have messaged with online, that do repair AKAI units. So, to my knowledge, no it wont hurt your tapes.


Also, as for a Repair Tech. in the NYC area.....I know of a Tandberg Expert in NY, he specializes in Tandberg and Revox machines, but has worked on all other brands as well. Such as Pioneer, Technics, AKAI, and others. he has all the necessary tools, and test equipment/tapes....has a ton of years experience, and Reel to Reels have been a big part of his years of repairing and restoring. I just know that he wont have extra parts for AKAI, so he could get, and install belts, etc....just would not have Factory Specific parts for the GX-747 on hand. However, if you have the Service Manual, it would be nothing he couldnt do, he would be able to bring it back to factory specs, or better. he also guarantees his work for 1 year. his name is Nick, and Email is : HTEL56@YAHOO.COM

Thye pinch roller for the GX-747 is available on Ebay, for about $40.00 and has been very highly regarded by various owners of GX-747 machines, these are brand new, with brand new Rubber and Bearing in center of the roller, this is the best you could get.

The Tutorial, is somewhere on Audio Karma, or Audio Asylum, and was posted step by step, and all tools required were mentioned along with instructions...very thorough instructions....and the technician who posted this was named WolfBob...a known excellent Engineer/tech. He has restored many brands of Reel to Reels, but no longer works on other peoples decks, only services what he sells. But his tutorial is somewhere in the Archives of one of the sites I mentioned here, AK or Asylum.....Hope this helps.......Ray







I am new to this forum and new at buying and using vintage tape decks. Hello everyone. I have an Akai GX-280 in mint cosmetic condition that needs mechanical work.

I just purchased a GX-747 and need some help. All functions work, plays and records very well. The tape tension arms are moving on their own and I would like to fix them. I ordered some belts off ebay, he says they are the right cross section belts. I also contacted an other place that was suggested on one of the forums.

Four questions:
When the arms are moving and or need new belts, does it put extra strain on the tape?

Somebody mentioned a tutorial on changing these belts, I can't find it, any links available would help.

Does anyone else have links to buy the belts and other Akai parts?

Does anyone know of a good service shop in the Long Island, New York area?

Thanks for the help.*reelspin*

Jim

[Authorjim]

Thanks for the very thorough reply. I have contacted turntables and needles but he needs the diameter of the belt and cross section geometry. Apparently he does not keep the info on what has been ordered before; so unless someone has those details he can't help. I don't want to take apart the deck till I have the belts.

I did purchase the pinch roller so that is coming, meanwhile I have been cleaning mine and with rubbing alcohol and temporarily it's working fine.

I will contact the tech that you gave me and get the deck in there, thanks for that.
I will also do an extensive search for the tutorial on the belt change and when I find it I will post the link.

Thanks again for all the help. It feels like a full time job. I'm resurrecting my old equipment and buying more, some that is perfect and some that needs a little work, but the results are fantastic.

So again thanks for the help.

Jim

[TandbergRay]

Hello Jim,

here is a post regarding this very issue, along with the exact part number highlighted link to the proper belts from turntableneedles.com for the GX-747 Tension Belts.....you'll see the post near bottom, with part numbers. Ray

http://audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=166979






Thanks for the very thorough reply. I have contacted turntables and needles but he needs the diameter of the belt and cross section geometry. Apparently he does not keep the info on what has been ordered before; so unless someone has those details he can't help. I don't want to take apart the deck till I have the belts.

I did purchase the pinch roller so that is coming, meanwhile I have been cleaning mine and with rubbing alcohol and temporarily it's working fine.

I will contact the tech that you gave me and get the deck in there, thanks for that.
I will also do an extensive search for the tutorial on the belt change and when I find it I will post the link.

Thanks again for all the help. It feels like a full time job. I'm resurrecting my old equipment and buying more, some that is perfect and some that needs a little work, but the results are fantastic.

So again thanks for the help.

Jim

[aarowsmith]

Hmm...

I don't seem to have that kind of problem while recording with the Akai. In fact, it has a much "full" sound than my Teac. But then again, my Teac probably isn't calibrated properly. But while monitoring recordings on both recorders, the sound coming from Akai is pretty equal to the source (only losing on very high frequencies) whereas Teac loses on low frequencies...

Something to think about.

If it's bad calibration is it an easy job to do?

You all have to remember too it is the Bias and quality compatability of your Reel Tape that makes all the difference in the World, on your Sound Quality you will get out of your reel machine.

Your particular Reel Machine has to be calibrated for a certain tape, and if not, you can experiment with different brands to hear which one is the best for your model/brand of machine. Teac machines are known for their wide compatibility with many types of reel tape brands, for instance my Teac 2300s machine works with well with Emtec/Basf 468 and Quantegy 406,407,478,480 and Scotch 150,209,211. And will work well with even Quantegy 499,456,457 and many other brands. But you need to calibrate the machine first for best results. The Teac Bias Switches on the front cover make it so much easier to get closer to the right Bias recording/playback for your particular reel brand of tape.

You need to experiment with your machine first before you spend millions on Bias adjustment procedures. Unless you know how to do it yourrself ? And you might as well teach your self how to do it properly.........

The next crucial thing to your sound quality is the condition of your machine/heads/tape path guides etc. Your recording source, your connection cables quality, and of course setting the right tape recording level to lesson tape saturation distortion problems.

Record at the right sound level, bias and the right tape brand for your machine, and you can increase your sound Quality, also increasing your Bass and Treble response as well.*reelspin**reelspin*

[TandbergRay]

Right On! Perfect Info.....I wish I knew how to do all of that proerly myself though, cause alot of the Bias adjusting is Internal, and not just he kob on he frnt of the decks....Ray

[progdrums]

[QUOTE=" There is an excellent tutorial on doing the actual repair/replacement on AudioKarma by a guy named Rolf, or WolfBob, I forget which guy, but both were experts at these thinggs, Wolfbob rebulit by TEAC X2000R to better than Factory specs, he was an excellent engineer. I think he put the step by step, with photos of replacing the 747 tension arms"[/QUOTE]

I did a search on AudioKarma and cannot find these guides. Any ideas?*reelspin*

[ke4mcl]

i'm a cheapskate, a very resourceful cheapskate at that. i've got some nice decks with minimal outlay but i dont always get exactly what i'm looking for. right now i have a stack of nice 3 head cassette decks but only one is a GX and a 2 head at that. same with my reel to reel decks. 2 middle of the road GX decks. my better decks use conventional heads.

if i was going to lay serious cash down for a *reelspin**reelspin* it would be a GX machine or nothing. with the cost of heads shooting up, personally it makes no sense to me to drop big cash on a machine fitted with unobtanium consumable parts.

the GX heads can suffer from cracks but i'd rather worry about finding an easy to locate parts akai with good heads than pay what say TEAC now wants for whatever heads are left on the shelves.