Sony TC-K730ES Reel Motor problem- help please!

[CottonSwab]

I have a very low hours 730ES that is in like new condition. It records and sounds beautiful. I have noticed the reel motor is very strong and fast but seems to speed up and slow occasionally. It is not real real bad but noticeable as a problem of some sort. Again, when it's running strong it's powerful but sometimes acts tired and slows only to speed up again. It never stops just seems to need some service.
Has anyone experience with this and can guide me through the service? Is it just lubrication or some type of idler/belt problem or power supply? Again, it works powerfully but slows some then comes back to speed after a bit.
I have not opened the unit or attempted anything yet thinking maybe it just needs to be used more. It's like new.
Thank you!
Ron

[bob955i]

I'd suggest lubricating the bearings to eliminate them from any further fault finding. It sounds like the motor shaft might be gradually binding and then releasing - this gives the slowing down and speeding up phenomenon.

[CottonSwab]

I'd suggest lubricating the bearings to eliminate them from any further fault finding. It sounds like the motor shaft might be gradually binding and then releasing - this gives the slowing down and speeding up phenomenon.

Bob,
I figured this might be it but not sure. Can this be done cover off from above or is it a major task?
Thank you so much.
Ron

[bob955i]

Bob,
I figured this might be it but not sure. Can this be done cover off from above or is it a major task?
Thank you so much.
Ron

Hi Ron,

Motors usually need removing in order to adequately service them. In your case as I'm not familiar with the deck's mechanical complexity, I can't say how difficult removal would be. I'd suggest removing the lid and having a look to see if you feel up to the job and if not, passing it to a competent tech. There's nothing wrong in admitting defeat as it can sometimes work out cheaper when one does, if you know what I mean.

If you do feel up to it, you'll likely find that while the front bearing will be easy to lubricate, the rear one will not, due to it being covered by a casing. You'll need to remove this casing to gain access as while there may be various small holes in it, it's not a good idea to drop oil in any of them unless you're absolutely sure that the one you're popping oil into, is in fact for lubrication.

When you're removing the casing, take care to avoid damaging the motor brushes and while you're in that length, clean out any carbon residue from the commutator slots with a toothpick (don't use anything metallic) and clean the commutator with IPA, again taking care to avoid damaging the brushes if they remain in situ.

Apply a small drop of sewing machine oil or whatever oil is recommended to the bearings then spin the motor by hand a couple of times to help the lube penetrate. Apply another small drop if necessary and spin the motor again. Remove any excess lubricant paying particular attention to the commutator and brushes area then reassemble the motor, taking care to avoid damaging the aforementioned brushes. Spin it again by hand to make sure it's assembled correctly and isn't jammed.

When done, refit the motor and spin it up under power to check it - if there's no more speeding up and slowing down, pat yourself on the back and enjoy your handiwork. If it still does it, at least you've eliminated dried out bearings and know to start looking elsewhere.

[CottonSwab]

Anyone know some details on this suggestion?
Need some help figuring what's in store for me with this.
Thank you....
Ron

[bob955i]

Hey Ron, sorry if I made this appear more complicated than it is - it wasn't my intention.

I'm sorry I'm not familiar with the deck mechanics and as I don't know your level of technical skill, I felt it best to at least provide a basic motor service walk-through to try and help you decide how to proceed. As they say, pictures do in fact tell a thousand words...

I work for a pro-audio company and regularly deal with customer "repairs" that end up costing them more to put right than if they had just sent the defective item back untouched in the first place. It was with this and the above in mind when I suggested you open the deck up.

[Warped Bezel]

I don't know how a 700 relates to a 730 but maybe Scorpion8 does and Nakdoc has a 730 listed in parts units.

[CottonSwab]

Hey Ron, sorry if I made this appear more complicated than it is - it wasn't my intention.

I'm sorry I'm not familiar with the deck mechanics and as I don't know your level of technical skill, I felt it best to at least provide a basic motor service walk-through to try and help you decide how to proceed. As they say, pictures do in fact tell a thousand words...

I work for a pro-audio company and regularly deal with customer "repairs" that end up costing them more to put right than if they had just sent the defective item back untouched in the first place. It was with this and the above in mind when I suggested you open the deck up.

Bob,
We both posted at the same time. I did not know you were going to write again after your first post.
I think the front bearings are accessed through behind the front bezel. I don't know though. I hope I can get a drop of sewing machine oil into the rear bearings. I just can't take the motors apart that is a bear to do. Some people spray deoxit into the casing. That makes me nervous too.
I know I need to get inside to scope it out. I have custom syringes I made to snake into tight areas maybe I can with this. I was just hoping there was some outside chance it would be easy. So the front is the most accessible?
Thanks-
Ron

[CottonSwab]

I don't know how a 700 relates to a 730 but maybe Scorpion8 does and Nakdoc has a 730 listed in parts units.

Thanks Bezel. I am hoping Scorpion8 will chime in too. If I can get my arms around this I will be so happy- really! This deck is like new it just needs this one thing at the moment.
Thank you-
Ron

[CottonSwab]

Bob,
This is a great procedure for the motor. I am hoping I can get to those bearings from the outside of the case. I am willing to take a chance. I'm out of time this weekend and it will have to wait. Maybe we can get more experience on the 730 ES here to help focus this down.
Excellent writeup and thank you. Every little bit helps.
Ron

Hi Ron,

Motors usually need removing in order to adequately service them. In your case as I'm not familiar with the deck's mechanical complexity, I can't say how difficult removal would be. I'd suggest removing the lid and having a look to see if you feel up to the job and if not, passing it to a competent tech. There's nothing wrong in admitting defeat as it can sometimes work out cheaper when one does, if you know what I mean.

If you do feel up to it, you'll likely find that while the front bearing will be easy to lubricate, the rear one will not, due to it being covered by a casing. You'll need to remove this casing to gain access as while there may be various small holes in it, it's not a good idea to drop oil in any of them unless you're absolutely sure that the one you're popping oil into, is in fact for lubrication.

When you're removing the casing, take care to avoid damaging the motor brushes and while you're in that length, clean out any carbon residue from the commutator slots with a toothpick (don't use anything metallic) and clean the commutator with IPA, again taking care to avoid damaging the brushes if they remain in situ.

Apply a small drop of sewing machine oil or whatever oil is recommended to the bearings then spin the motor by hand a couple of times to help the lube penetrate. Apply another small drop if necessary and spin the motor again. Remove any excess lubricant paying particular attention to the commutator and brushes area then reassemble the motor, taking care to avoid damaging the aforementioned brushes. Spin it again by hand to make sure it's assembled correctly and isn't jammed.

When done, refit the motor and spin it up under power to check it - if there's no more speeding up and slowing down, pat yourself on the back and enjoy your handiwork. If it still does it, at least you've eliminated dried out bearings and know to start looking elsewhere.

[bob955i]

My procedure is based on worst case scenario and a do everything or as much as possible while it's in bits approach Ron so if you can access the motor bearings without any dismantling, so much the better.

Good luck with everything.

[khongtiennang]

I have a very low hours 730ES that is in like new condition. It records and sounds beautiful. I have noticed the reel motor is very strong and fast but seems to speed up and slow occasionally. It is not real real bad but noticeable as a problem of some sort. Again, when it's running strong it's powerful but sometimes acts tired and slows only to speed up again. It never stops just seems to need some service.
Has anyone experience with this and can guide me through the service? Is it just lubrication or some type of idler/belt problem or power supply? Again, it works powerfully but slows some then comes back to speed after a bit.
I have not opened the unit or attempted anything yet thinking maybe it just needs to be used more. It's like new.
Thank you!
Ron


I would suggest you to take the reel tables & idler gear out in order to clean it since the old grease & lub get sticky. So some time the reel motor can overcome, some time can not as you described the symtoms.

This sticky problem is very usual by old sony decks as i experirenced by TC-K777ESII, TC-K333ESX(700ES in Europe& America) & TC-K333ESR(730ES)

Weakenning reel motor usually will lead to stop mode.

[CottonSwab]

My procedure is based on worst case scenario and a do everything or as much as possible while it's in bits approach Ron so if you can access the motor bearings without any dismantling, so much the better.

Good luck with everything.

Thank you Bob!


Nice picture thanks for that. This is behind the front decorative panel ?
I will remove the old grease and add new. Then add a drop of oil behind the white colored gear. Sound like a plan guys?
Thank you khongtiennang very much. I will clean up and re-lube. I hope that's the cure. *hope*


I would suggest you to take the reel tables & idler gear out in order to clean it since the old grease & lub get sticky. So some time the reel motor can overcome, some time can not as you described the symtoms.

This sticky problem is very usual by old sony decks as i experirenced by TC-K777ESII, TC-K333ESX(700ES in Europe& America) & TC-K333ESR(730ES)

Weakenning reel motor usually will lead to stop mode.

[Warped Bezel]

If the motor in question is also found in the 700( ) model Nakdoc has listed in Parts Units, then perhaps it could assist you.

I have already PM'ed Scorp and Nakdoc and perhaps they can offer more information.

Bezel/Steven

[khongtiennang]

Thank you Bob!


Nice picture thanks for that. This is behind the front decorative panel ?
I will remove the old grease and add new. Then add a drop of oil behind the white colored gear. Sound like a plan guys?
Thank you khongtiennang very much. I will clean up and re-lube. I hope that's the cure. *hope*



Right, for repair i have taken the whole transport out and the decor-panel as you see.

In case no improvement you can buy a mabuchi RF-510T for replacement.
it fit well for this purpose.

[Scorpion8]

Jumped into this one late. I agree that lubing the motor bearing may help. It's also possible that the deck sat too long unused to find a minty deck of that vintage now. Have you tried flushing the motor with DeOxit, or at least flushing the motor VR-speed pot which may have settled with some bit of corrosion.

One thing I would try, is to set the deck up on the rear panel, lube the bearings and let it run for 24-48 hrs without touching it. See if it "runs in".

There's a chance I may have a compatible motor also.

[CottonSwab]

Right, for repair i have taken the whole transport out and the decor-panel as you see.

In case no improvement you can buy a mabuchi RF-510T for replacement.
it fit well for this purpose.

I see this can become much work to repair. I am hoping that the cleaning and lubrication fixes the problem. Thank you for helping me work on this khongtiennang.*hope* Please monitor my progress if you can -thank you.

Jumped into this one late. I agree that lubing the motor bearing may help. It's also possible that the deck sat too long unused to find a minty deck of that vintage now. Have you tried flushing the motor with DeOxit, or at least flushing the motor VR-speed pot which may have settled with some bit of corrosion.

One thing I would try, is to set the deck up on the rear panel, lube the bearings and let it run for 24-48 hrs without touching it. See if it "runs in".

There's a chance I may have a compatible motor also.

Scorpion8,

I have only had the deck a week or so and have not opened her up. Yes it is like new maybe it sat for awhile. It runs good otherwise as far as I can tell so far. The operation has been good except for this. Its not awful but not steady either.

I plan to remove the covers and front bezel to get to the gears for cleaning sometime this week. I have to be very careful here one step at a time. I have no service manual yet for this deck.

I have a few questions please:

Where is the deoxit applied just in case the cleaning and lube does not work?

How would I run the motor continuous like that? With a battery and the drive gear removed?

I am not sure how a speed adjustment pot would cause a change in speed in the motor once it has been set but its something to think about I guess.

I really hope a thorough cleaning of gummy gears and an oiling of the front bearing fixes this. Is the oil applied to a bearing behind the center white gear in the picture from khongtiennang? I assume that is where the bearing is??

Thank you for the input here I really hope it does not come down to a new motor we will see I guess.

I appreciate this help thank you all...
Ron

[A.N.T.]

Here is the service manual for the TC-K730ES. (www.ant-audio.co.uk/Tape_Recording/Service/SONY_TCK333ESR_TCK730ES.pdf)

(Do "Save as" for the PDF file)

Cheers

Alex

[Scorpion8]

Ron --

You can flush the motor with the red straw thru any hole into the motor case. I would do the "let it run" part first to see if the deck just needs a run-in to take any storage bumps out of the belts memory. Just remove the cassette well cover, turn it on, make sure the capstan is turning, and let it run. Maybe give it a drop of lube at this time on the capstan front sleeve bearing.

[Skywavebe]

Hi Ron,
Many times people look at reel motors and see an irregular rotation and blame the motor for this condition. It might not be. Although I always concur with the oiling of motors, the one item here that is not understood is that the motor may be rotating differently due to load. The decks I see with Idlers and DC reel motors often times have an irregular speed due to the torque being applied either through a non perfect rubber tire on an idler or that the felt in the slip clutch is far past due to be changed. Like the record EQ in many older Teac decks I have posted about, this is yet another item that needs attention but often times is jumped over. If the slip clutch is yellow looking and has a felt element in the construction, chances are that after all this time it is dried up and ready a long time ago to be replaced. Well, MCM used to sell a kit that had these items in it but now days we have to get our own material and use rubber cement rather than the peel off adhesive like in this kit. If those people with torque gauges by either Teac or Sony measure the take-up torque of most decks of age they will find that the value they are suppose to get is exceeded. There is no way to correct this except to change the felt I am talking about. The old felt type material dried and powdered as we used to call it does not slip like it is suppose to and that leads to excessive torque beyond the values specified in the service manual. This is the same stuff that Teac brake pad are made of and so the same condition there applies and people often jump over that as well. Get some thin or medium felt- white if you can and use a rubber cement- that you can get at the art supply store and remove the old felt, glue on a new felt that you cut from the felt you bought and then let it dry- do not put on a lot of glue as you don't want it to soak through just station the felt so that it does not rotate. Sometimes there is a position or spring to be dealing with that can allow for adjustment of the torque value. Once you get some oil in the front bearing and a good piece of felt in that slip clutch you will see less motor variance in the rotation. If I keep on giving my secrets away- I won't have to repair decks anymore. Thanks to Alex for the service manual- I stored it away as collecting them is always a plus.

[CottonSwab]

Here is the service manual for the TC-K730ES. (www.ant-audio.co.uk/Tape_Recording/Service/SONY_TCK333ESR_TCK730ES.pdf)

(Do "Save as" for the PDF file)

Cheers

Alex

Thank You for this ANT.
Wish me luck! *hope*

[CottonSwab]

Ron --

You can flush the motor with the red straw thru any hole into the motor case. I would do the "let it run" part first to see if the deck just needs a run-in to take any storage bumps out of the belts memory. Just remove the cassette well cover, turn it on, make sure the capstan is turning, and let it run. Maybe give it a drop of lube at this time on the capstan front sleeve bearing.

Scorpion8,

So far I understand to "Run-In" the capstan motors and their belts and apply a slight bit of sewing machine oil to the capstan front bearings. Do this for a couple days. (Not the Reel Motor)

While I have her on end with the bezel off I will clean all the old grease from the gear drives. What grease can I use to refresh this? (I have lithium grease I can apply carefully) When I have finished that I would like to place a drop of oil onto the front bearing of the Reel Motor. Now, is this the gear we see in the photo that is white at top center? I wonder if I can get in there behind the gear from the front? I do not want to force the gear off. If it is yellowed it will break.

During the "Run-In" that oil on the Reel Motor bearing can have a chance to wick inward hopefully if I can get it placed right.

Do you agree so far Scorpion8? I am asking because you clarified "Run-In" from cleaning the Reel Motor with Deoxit. Thank you very much for doing that. Hopefully after the cleanup and lube at the front I will not need to flush the motor but I will know in time.

Next question for Skywavebe or whomever can help:

Hi Ron,
Many times people look at reel motors and see an irregular rotation and blame the motor for this condition. It might not be. Although I always concur with the oiling of motors, the one item here that is not understood is that the motor may be rotating differently due to load. The decks I see with Idlers and DC reel motors often times have an irregular speed due to the torque being applied either through a non perfect rubber tire on an idler or that the felt in the slip clutch is far past due to be changed. Like the record EQ in many older Teac decks I have posted about, this is yet another item that needs attention but often times is jumped over. If the slip clutch is yellow looking and has a felt element in the construction, chances are that after all this time it is dried up and ready a long time ago to be replaced. Well, MCM used to sell a kit that had these items in it but now days we have to get our own material and use rubber cement rather than the peel off adhesive like in this kit. If those people with torque gauges by either Teac or Sony measure the take-up torque of most decks of age they will find that the value they are suppose to get is exceeded. There is no way to correct this except to change the felt I am talking about. The old felt type material dried and powdered as we used to call it does not slip like it is suppose to and that leads to excessive torque beyond the values specified in the service manual. This is the same stuff that Teac brake pad are made of and so the same condition there applies and people often jump over that as well. Get some thin or medium felt- white if you can and use a rubber cement- that you can get at the art supply store and remove the old felt, glue on a new felt that you cut from the felt you bought and then let it dry- do not put on a lot of glue as you don't want it to soak through just station the felt so that it does not rotate. Sometimes there is a position or spring to be dealing with that can allow for adjustment of the torque value. Once you get some oil in the front bearing and a good piece of felt in that slip clutch you will see less motor variance in the rotation. If I keep on giving my secrets away- I won't have to repair decks anymore. Thanks to Alex for the service manual- I stored it away as collecting them is always a plus.


Where exactly in the photo is the felt clutch? I want to be sure I know because any oil by accident there would be a disaster. I want to be careful. I do hope that everything else I have to do will not require its replacement though as it may be very hard to do...don't know.*hope*

Thank you for your help everyone. I can do this maintenance I just hope it works. That would be so great!

[Scorpion8]

Scorpion8,

So far I understand to "Run-In" the capstan motors and their belts and apply a slight bit of sewing machine oil to the capstan front bearings. Do this for a couple days. (Not the Reel Motor)

While I have her on end with the bezel off I will clean all the old grease from the gear drives. What grease can I use to refresh this? (I have lithium grease I can apply carefully) When I have finished that I would like to place a drop of oil onto the front bearing of the Reel Motor. Now, is this the gear we see in the photo that is white at top center? I wonder if I can get in there behind the gear from the front? I do not want to force the gear off. If it is yellowed it will break.

During the "Run-In" that oil on the Reel Motor bearing can have a chance to wick inward hopefully if I can get it placed right.

Do you agree so far Scorpion8? I am asking because you clarified "Run-In" from cleaning the Reel Motor with Deoxit. Thank you very much for doing that. Hopefully after the cleanup and lube at the front I will not need to flush the motor but I will know in time.

Yes, you have it right. The lube oil will wick inward, and the up-on-its-backplate arrangement only helps that. And yes, "cleaning with DeOxit" is different than the run-in. Run-in just implies that you let it run long enough to warm everything up, stretch the belts and run any storage "bumps" out of them from sitting in one position too long. White lithium grease is a good grease to use where you see old, dried and hardened grease crusties. Gently clean those out with some tooth-picks or (my preference) old dental picks (I have a friend who is a dental tech and keeps me supplied). A tooth pick is a good applicator for a small dab of new white lithium grease.

And if you can, also lube the reel motor as you've suggested. It all helps.

[CottonSwab]

Yes, you have it right. The lube oil will wick inward, and the up-on-its-backplate arrangement only helps that. And yes, "cleaning with DeOxit" is different than the run-in. Run-in just implies that you let it run long enough to warm everything up, stretch the belts and run any storage "bumps" out of them from sitting in one position too long. White lithium grease is a good grease to use where you see old, dried and hardened grease crusties. Gently clean those out with some tooth-picks or (my preference) old dental picks (I have a friend who is a dental tech and keeps me supplied). A tooth pick is a good applicator for a small dab of new white lithium grease.

And if you can, also lube the reel motor as you've suggested. It all helps.

Scorpion8,

I have the deck up and have started the run- in with a couple drops of oil at each capstan. Gosh it's so quiet! I will let it run a couple days then I'll take off the decorative plate and clean her up. I guess I am still wondering if the motor bearing is behind the white gear at the top of the photo. I am just wondering what my chances will be getting some oil to that bearing. Actually I'm a little stressed about it.

Looks like the front bezel snaps on I see no screws in there. I still have to download the manual I couldn't connect to the site at work today.
Thank you so much for your help. Please check back if you can!

Ron

[Scorpion8]

I guess I am still wondering if the motor bearing is behind the white gear at the top of the photo. I am just wondering what my chances will be getting some oil to that bearing. Actually I'm a little stressed about it.

Once you get the SM downloaded, the location should be pointed out. I don't have experience with that particular mechanism, but Sony used a standard series of tape drives with very little difference between them. The exploded parts diagram has a nice picture of where you should lube.

[Warped Bezel]

Cotton Swab: I doubt many decks snap together...those tabs break too easily. I've seen screws under a rubber strip or pad stuck over the screws...some come off on the SIDES, others after removing the aluminum fascia to reveal the faceplate screws.

[CottonSwab]

Once you get the SM downloaded, the location should be pointed out. I don't have experience with that particular mechanism, but Sony used a standard series of tape drives with very little difference between them. The exploded parts diagram has a nice picture of where you should lube.

Scorpion8,

I tried to download the manual but the site just spins and spins I cannot connect. I managed to get off hifiengine the 333esg manual but mine is the 333esr. I will try to make it work somehow.
Thanks,
Ron

[CottonSwab]

Cotton Swab: I doubt many decks snap together...those tabs break too easily. I've seen screws under a rubber strip or pad stuck over the screws...some come off on the SIDES, others after removing the aluminum fascia to reveal the faceplate screws.


Hi Warped Bezel,

The Ornamental Plate is there as in all decks but the screw locations are not obvious I will have to figure out where they are hidden or covered. The 333esg manual shows them at the top left and right sided but shows no cover over them. I think I need help from someone who has actually worked on this particular deck. I really do!
Thanks-
Ron

[khongtiennang]

Hi Warped Bezel,

The Ornamental Plate is there as in all decks but the screw locations are not obvious I will have to figure out where they are hidden or covered. The 333esg manual shows them at the top left and right sided but shows no cover over them. I think I need help from someone who has actually worked on this particular deck. I really do!
Thanks-
Ron

The Ornamental Plate are hold through 2 plastic tab/ hooks at above quite corners(left and right) . Please look at two tiny orange spots in the picture you will see there are two tabs like hooks standing near it.

There are no screws holding the decco-plate

You must press it a little upward then you can take it out.

[CottonSwab]

The Ornamental Plate are hold through 2 plastic tab/ hooks at above quite corners(left and right) . Please look at two tiny orange spots in the picture you will see there are two tabs like hooks standing near it.

There are no screws holding the decco-plate

You must press it a little upward then you can take it out.

I knew thats what I saw, the top two little clips. It does snap in!

Right now I am doing the run-in as was suggested. also, last night I noticed the motor was more stable than usual. Gosh this baby must have had a long rest but still smells like new.

Thank You khongtiennang so much! *bigthumbup*

Do you think I get get oil to that bearing? I don't want to take the transport out I fear something will go wrong...

It does not look like there is a way to the bearing from the front. Maybe above?

[A.N.T.]

Do you think I get get oil to that bearing? I don't want to take the transport out I fear something will go wrong...

And you are quite right to worry about that - a very common problem on these transports is that when you are trying to remove the mechanism the headblock gets moved and as a result one or more steel balls supporting it drops out, rendering the deck faulty as the headblock is jammed. I've just received the Sony TC-K555ESX (the top Japanese version of the TC-K700ES) with that very problem! Thankfully I've got spare balls *wink* (for the deck, that is) .

Cheers

Alex

[CottonSwab]

And you are quite right to worry about that - a very common problem on these transports is that when you are trying to remove the mechanism the headblock gets moved and as a result one or more steel balls supporting it drops out, rendering the deck faulty as the headblock is jammed. I've just received the Sony TC-K555ESX (the top Japanese version of the TC-K700ES) with that very problem! Thankfully I've got spare balls *wink* (for the deck, that is) .

Cheers

Alex

Alex,

Thank you for the warning! Please, from the front or however, how can I get a little oil to that bearing? And do I really have to??? if I clean and lube the gears nicely? I need a hand...

Last night I noticed it was running better with much less variance. I really do think it just needs to be used more but as you can see I am worried about it.

I want to minimally disturb the deck at all cost.

Thank you!
Ron

[Scorpion8]

Scorpion8, I tried to download the manual but the site just spins and spins I cannot connect. I managed to get off hifiengine the 333esg manual but mine is the 333esr. I will try to make it work somehow. Thanks, Ron

PM me an e-mail address and I will e-mail you a copy. Make sure the account is big enough to hold the attachment (~7 MB) or I can upload to USendIt for you to download at your convenience.

[A.N.T.]

Scorpion8,

I tried to download the manual but the site just spins and spins I cannot connect. I managed to get off hifiengine the 333esg manual but mine is the 333esr. I will try to make it work somehow.
Thanks,
Ron

Hi Ron,

Sorry I've missed that post. You need to do a "right-click" on the link and choose "Save As" - and the file will download happily.

Cheers

Alex

[A.N.T.]

Alex,

Thank you for the warning! Please, from the front or however, how can I get a little oil to that bearing? And do I really have to??? if I clean and lube the gears nicely? I need a hand...

Last night I noticed it was running better with much less variance. I really do think it just needs to be used more but as you can see I am worried about it.

I want to minimally disturb the deck at all cost.

Thank you!
Ron

Ron,

I've just tried to reach the front of the reel motor on the TC-K555ESX. It is do-able without removing the mechanism, just with a bit of care and attention, a flat screwdriver and tweezers. You need to remove the back circuit board from the mechanism and the motor with its holding plate. (unscrew two screws holding the motor plate and two more holding the board). It is than possible to pull the board and the motor with the idler gear assembly back. Things to watch for: very thin wires to the solenoid and the reel brakes assembly that falls out after removing the reel motor. There is a small spring on the breaks assembly that may fall out - however it is fairly easy to put it back. Now you can access the front of the motor. Even with the motor removed it is not easy to put a drop of oil on the front bearing - you'll have to use a very thin plastic pipe to do it, or a syringe with a thin needle. I would advise against removal of the idler assembly from the axis.

Things to watch when re-assembling: switches go under the plastic arms and the reel brakes frame has to sit in the right place.

I've done the lot in about 15 minutes.

Cheers

Alex

[CottonSwab]

Alex,

Thank you for the detailed pictures of the assembly that really helped.
I took off the front decorative plate and had a look see. There was no grease on the gears at all. Just a tiny bit on the reel motor gear which tells me they just built it up and installed without lubing it. The reel gears were fresh and clean not a trace of anything. And also all was brand new looking.

I took a dental irrigation syringe and put a piece of shrink tubing on the end to get to the bearing. I managed to get around the gear and apply the oil it just wicked right into the motor bearing. Cleaned up the excess then I used an artist brush to apply the lithium grease to the gears. When I was done I dressed the lube and reinstalled the cover plate.

I put in a tape and pressed rewind and it took off smooth and easy. Effortlessly the tape was Fast Forward and rewound. It works beautiful like new.

I just cannot believe it was that easy. Man I was stressed over it too.

I don't know what to say everyone thank you so much really! *Hi5*

This is great. Right now she is sitting on her rear panel to let the oil wick some more. I am wanting to set the deck in the correct position though and use it. I guess it should be OK to do that after a couple hours.

Wow am I pleased. Sometimes things go right I guess. *hope*

Thanks so much...
Ron

[khongtiennang]

I knew thats what I saw, the top two little clips. It does snap in!

Right now I am doing the run-in as was suggested. also, last night I noticed the motor was more stable than usual. Gosh this baby must have had a long rest but still smells like new.

Thank You khongtiennang so much! *bigthumbup*

Do you think I get get oil to that bearing? I don't want to take the transport out I fear something will go wrong...

It does not look like there is a way to the bearing from the front. Maybe above?

Gratulate you have repaired successfully!
This old Sony mecha block with original Sony heads is easy to demontage & maintain, but the combi-heads- for more adjusment as the late sourced from Canon- get quickly worn when frequently used- This is the main weak point.
Of course sometimes the tape speed gets wrong even with quartz-lock DD capstan motor when two Alu -condensator 10microF 16V on the DD capstan motor pcb degrade.

[Warped Bezel]

Hi Warped Bezel,

The Ornamental Plate is there as in all decks but the screw locations are not obvious I will have to figure out where they are hidden or covered. The 333esg manual shows them at the top left and right sided but shows no cover over them. I think I need help from someone who has actually worked on this particular deck. I really do!
Thanks-
Ron

CottonSwab is right. The latest version of Adobe Reader shows a progress gauge as it loads and the address stalls in IE8 at least.

Here's your alternate on Elektro Tanya:

http://elektrotanya.com/sony_tck333esr_tck730es_sm.pdf/download.html

[CottonSwab]

Gratulate you have repaired successfully!
This old Sony mecha block with original Sony heads is easy to demontage & maintain, but the combi-heads- for more adjusment as the late sourced from Canon- get quickly worn when frequently used- This is the main weak point.
Of course sometimes the tape speed gets wrong even with quartz-lock DD capstan motor when two Alu -condensator 10microF 16V on the DD capstan motor pcb degrade.

Thank You! I appreciate your help with the work. Will I be OK with the Lithium grease over time? I put it on carefully and neat.

Nice pictue of the inside. That looks like a new unit! How did you learn so much about the Sont ES decks khongtiennang?

Oh yes I promise some pictures later in the week so please check here.

Thank You,
Ron

[khongtiennang]

Thank You! I appreciate your help with the work. Will I be OK with the Lithium grease over time? I put it on carefully and neat.

Nice pictue of the inside. That looks like a new unit! How did you learn so much about the Sont ES decks khongtiennang?

Oh yes I promise some pictures later in the week so please check here.

Thank You,
Ron


I don't know much about greases. In my country i can buy silicon grease only for applying for gears.

I have a lot of Sony ES (old like TC-K333ESX/555ESX & TC-K333ESR/555ESR 8 pcs) and appr. 12 pcs TC-K 222/333/555ESG/ESL/ESA/ESJ, TC-KA3ES/A5ES, all are junk from Japan, dirty cheap here 30-50 USD/pcs and i repaired it as hobby.
Here are picture of TC-K555ESR "higher" as TC-K333ESR or 730ES for your reference:

[CottonSwab]

I don't know much about greases. In my country i can buy silicon grease only for applying for gears.

I have a lot of Sony ES (old like TC-K333ESX/555ESX & TC-K333ESR/555ESR 8 pcs) and appr. 12 pcs TC-K 222/333/555ESG/ESL/ESA/ESJ, TC-KA3ES/A5ES, all are junk from Japan, dirty cheap here 30-50 USD/pcs and i repaired it as hobby.
Here are picture of TC-K555ESR "higher" as TC-K333ESR or 730ES for your reference:

You have done well with this as a hobby. I might even go as pfar as to say you might be a leading authority by now.
khongtiennang, you have many decks to work on!

I checked the deck this morning and all is OK. I have it sitting on the back panel with the capstans upward for the bearing oil to wick in. Tonight I am placing back into the system to continue recording and learning how to level and bias with the tapes I own. This is a hobby too!

I am going to use some of my older decks for bench testing and repair service to learn as well. It's only the very complex mechanisms I am not ready for. This deck was new and I did not want to disturb it at all as I have only made believe it two tapes on it so far. I want to learn how to make the best tapes ever on the 730 but this means using the right tapes too. So I have that to learn also.

Thank you again for your support.
Ron

[CottonSwab]

To everyone who helped in this thread...

Nice job fellas! I was very nervous with this at first as the unit was new and I was very reluctant to start messing with it as well as very unfamiliar. The confidence was not there. Last night I just told myself to get in there and do the service and be clever. My dad always said "If you don't have the tool, make one". So I built the custom oiler and got behind the gear on the reel motor with no problem. Painting the lube on the reel gears was kind of fun as they did not require a cleaning. There was no grease to remove as I said in an earlier post.

So the rewards were twofold, I have a beautiful working deck, and we all did it together like a team. I was impressed by your caring.

Anyways, I will get some pictures up soon as I said for everyone to enjoy.
Please, if you guys ever need anything just ask. You will be surprised!

Thanks and take care...
Ron *hope*

[Scorpion8]

I have a beautiful working deck, ...

Congrats! You did the work. Enjoy it!

[CottonSwab]

Congrats! You did the work. Enjoy it!

Thanks Scorpion8!

You guys helped alot here don't forget it!

Ron