Canon_Man
05-06-2011, 08:05 AM
I noticed a few threads here talking about how to repair an 8-track tape so that it will play again. I have about 90 tapes from the 1970's. Some are home grown recordings.
I have a 1978 Dodge restoration project that has a factory 8-track AM/FM stereo in it and of course an 8-track in the house too. Owned the car since new.
My wife, a walking contradiction, can't understand why I won't let go of the technology, yet she has 'stuff' she has lovingly preserved since long before we were married!
Anyway, I have some tapes that use the foam reinforcement to keep the tape on the read head of the deck. Over time the foam disintegrates and may even contribute to a tape being 'eaten' by the capstan drive.
During the winter months, I have taken a number of tapes apart and replaced the splice, foil and the foam and cleaned the inside of the tape case as well. the results were very acceptable and the repaired ones are still running.
Here's what I did:
Each tape comes apart a little differently depending on the manufacturer. Often the label seals the tape and it has to be cut along the seam between the two halves in order to get the tape apart. I have resorted in some cases to leaving the label intact and simply opening the cartridge and using the label as a 'hinge' to hold it all together while I work on the inner parts.
I clean everything with Isopropyl alcohol prior to reassembly, including both sides of the splice area.
For foil, I use aluminum foil cut to size and held in place at each end with magic tape cut on a diagonal to match the foil. The backside of the splice gets another piece of magic tape and then the magic tape is trimmed so the tape does not extend beyond the outer edges of the mag tape.
For the foam, I use medium density often used in furniture, but have even used foam sponges purchased at the Dollar Store. I cut the foam to the correct width and thickness and then finally size it to the backing. (If you ever lose a backing strip (usually white) I have used a plastic coffee stir stick cut to the right length from StarBuck's, whatever.
The foam is attached to the backing with that two-sided tape used to attach plastic film storm windows. It's just about the right width. Then I cut a slice in the middle of the foam so it will straddle the post that divides the opening in the tape facing the read head.
'Purests' may cringe at this, but this repair method has lasted over 20 years now. Worked for me, your experience may vary.
I have a 1978 Dodge restoration project that has a factory 8-track AM/FM stereo in it and of course an 8-track in the house too. Owned the car since new.
My wife, a walking contradiction, can't understand why I won't let go of the technology, yet she has 'stuff' she has lovingly preserved since long before we were married!
Anyway, I have some tapes that use the foam reinforcement to keep the tape on the read head of the deck. Over time the foam disintegrates and may even contribute to a tape being 'eaten' by the capstan drive.
During the winter months, I have taken a number of tapes apart and replaced the splice, foil and the foam and cleaned the inside of the tape case as well. the results were very acceptable and the repaired ones are still running.
Here's what I did:
Each tape comes apart a little differently depending on the manufacturer. Often the label seals the tape and it has to be cut along the seam between the two halves in order to get the tape apart. I have resorted in some cases to leaving the label intact and simply opening the cartridge and using the label as a 'hinge' to hold it all together while I work on the inner parts.
I clean everything with Isopropyl alcohol prior to reassembly, including both sides of the splice area.
For foil, I use aluminum foil cut to size and held in place at each end with magic tape cut on a diagonal to match the foil. The backside of the splice gets another piece of magic tape and then the magic tape is trimmed so the tape does not extend beyond the outer edges of the mag tape.
For the foam, I use medium density often used in furniture, but have even used foam sponges purchased at the Dollar Store. I cut the foam to the correct width and thickness and then finally size it to the backing. (If you ever lose a backing strip (usually white) I have used a plastic coffee stir stick cut to the right length from StarBuck's, whatever.
The foam is attached to the backing with that two-sided tape used to attach plastic film storm windows. It's just about the right width. Then I cut a slice in the middle of the foam so it will straddle the post that divides the opening in the tape facing the read head.
'Purests' may cringe at this, but this repair method has lasted over 20 years now. Worked for me, your experience may vary.