Any advice for buying an open-reel deck?

[Eldorado]

I'm now signed up with Yahoo Auction in Japan so I'll be looking out for blank tape to build up a decent stock, and also for a nice deck. I've got a 7-inch TEAC already, but I've already decided that it would be best to also get a deck for 10.5 reels.

I'd just like to hear any and all advice that people think might be relevant for a relative newcomer on the lookout for something to buy. I'll be mainly keeping an eye open for a Technics, Akai, or TEAC deck (Teac X-2000R etc). Some other brands maybe, but probably not Otari.

Any kind of information would be useful, but especially concerning price (specifically, what would be too much to pay), obvious pitfalls to avoid, and strengths and weaknesses of certain machines, particularly in relation to repair and obtaining spare parts.

[niklasthedolphin]

Is it the design of these decks you like?

There will be options of other decks with better availability of spare parts, with better sound, more durable decks for less money than you will have to pay for these decks.

Just wondering.

"dolph"

[Eldorado]

Is it the design of these decks you like?

Design is certainly part of it. I really like the TEAC I have now. But if I get a second deck, I wouldn't want it to look identical. And there are certain other decks that I'd cross off my list based on their looks, too. Superficial, maybe, but I've usually included the aesthetics of audio equipment as a factor in my decision to buy.

I do want to avoid any decks that are notoriously difficult to obtain replacement parts for or that have a higher likelihood of breaking down. Sound is also important to me, but not to the level of a hardcore audio nut. I don't agonize over squeezing the absolute best out of the equipment, and I don't make my room uncomfortable just to achieve perfect acoustics.

[TheReeler]

About prices, I paid 405 euros for a Teac X-2000R with less than 50 hours on it and in mint condition with the original wood case, but this is not the normal price here, usually ir gets more.

After talking with some collectors, like one of the biggest in Europe, some think that X1000 is better than X2000 because X2000's heads long less than X1000's ones.

The tension in the X2000 is a copy of the system used in the Grundig TS-1000 (from 1976). Tension arms are attached to an internal system to control the voltage of the take-up and supply motors, so that when the tension arms goes down, the voltage goes up... so the theory is that the system will be equilibrated all times without the need of selecting the reel size, BUT, as most things that are not very simple, sometimes doesn't work so good as it was supposed. In my case, the tension arms usually are fluctuating very very fast causing the reel motors to fluctuate too, so the result is that the tape isn't winded as good as it would be done if the tension arms didn't fluctuate.

[Skywavebe]

Hi Reeler,
There should not be any fast movement in the tension arms as you say. The arms position (reference) may be at fault here but more likely there is a mechanical reason for it. Lubrication of the rollers, the bearing being out of round or worn out and what I have seen is that the reel motors themselves can cause this in slower movements due to stator being clogged with carbon from the brushes- this will also be a sign of the speed starting to diminish as the power going to the motor is being shunted away from the motor fields through the carbon that is not suppose to be there. If you do not wait to the very last minute on these motors, I have taken them out and apart to restore to like new. An experience tech can determine by observation what is really happening with your deck. Too bad I am in Chicago and you are in Spain. E mail me if you want to get into it more detailed.

Sam Palermo,

[Skywavebe]

Hi Eldorado,
Of course I am opinionated towards the Teac product in some cases. I am also driven from the Akai product pretty good from my past experiences.
I would determine what type of use you have for the machine. What I mean is does it need to have autoreverse in record or just play? Does it need to have any more advanced noise reduction in it? I have found that the units I have seen and obtained have worked well for me and as well for the customers I service. The A6300 has auto reverse, 10.5 " reels and works very well with AC motors in it. These types will outlast the DC models several times over but it does not have a pitch control if that is what you must have. I am against Akai in most cases but I have no beef with Pioneer, Sony, Technics, and most certainly Revox or better yet Studer units.
You should not run from Otari as they are very robust units and have a great design. The only thing against them is that they are professional machines and have 1/2 track heads in them but that can be changed. Once you get what you want in an Otari machine head wise you will find that there is no reason to avoid them but it is quite the opposite!

Sam,

[TheReeler]

The problem is always shipping, because in Europe you can get Revox A77 and B77 at very good prices, and sometimes, even under 100 euros in working condition.

If you are in Japan, I'd prefer Teac instead of Akai. If you like Pioneer, take a look at the RT-909 and the RT-1020.

[Eldorado]

Yes, I'll only be looking in Japan for decks, due to their weight. But with a population of 130 million, I think there should be enough to choose from.

Skywavebe, recording in both directions is not a priority at all for me.

I don't know much about noise reduction, so it's hard to say what my needs are in that direction. I've read varying opinions on the subject, and I don't really know where I stand.

[Eldorado]

By the way guys, thanks very much for the information. I'd still like to hear anything relevant or irrelevant from anyone with an opinion. It's all gold.

[niklasthedolphin]

My recommendations are:

Lyrec TR 53/55 (http://www.earhear.se/utrustning/lyrec.jpg)/Frida (http://www.soundtapewereld.nl/Bandrecorders/Merken/Lyrec/Types/PTR-1/LYREC-PTR1---PL-GR.jpg)
Sony APR 5000-series (http://www.allegrosound.com/Sony_APR-5003.jpg)
3M M79 (http://www.gearslutz.com/board/attachment.php?attachmentid=24155&d=1158440160)
(comes in two track as well)

But these are pro machines.
They are the best.
But maybe that's just me?

"dolph"

[kevinkr]

Yes, I'll only be looking in Japan for decks, due to their weight. But with a population of 130 million, I think there should be enough to choose from.

Skywavebe, recording in both directions is not a priority at all for me.

I don't know much about noise reduction, so it's hard to say what my needs are in that direction. I've read varying opinions on the subject, and I don't really know where I stand.

How about an Otari MX-5050 B2 or B3?

[utahusker]

I'm now signed up with Yahoo Auction in Japan so I'll be looking out for blank tape to build up a decent stock, and also for a nice deck. I've got a 7-inch TEAC already, but I've already decided that it would be best to also get a deck for 10.5 reels.

I'd just like to hear any and all advice that people think might be relevant for a relative newcomer on the lookout for something to buy. I'll be mainly keeping an eye open for a Technics, Akai, or TEAC deck (Teac X-2000R etc). Some other brands maybe, but probably not Otari.

Any kind of information would be useful, but especially concerning price (specifically, what would be too much to pay), obvious pitfalls to avoid, and strengths and weaknesses of certain machines, particularly in relation to repair and obtaining spare parts.He stated on the first post he wasn't interested in Otari.;)

[Eldorado]

Easy now. I'm happy to hear any advice. I can already see that this is going to end up with me owning six or seven decks...

[kevinkr]

He said "probably not" Otari, not "definitely not" I guess a company that still manufactures analog tape recorders, keeps a huge store of spare parts, goes out its way to support people who own their products and builds reliable and good sounding machines should not be reconsidered. Not only that but because they were the workhorse of many radio stations and studios around the planet they are pretty plentiful and often cheap. (Just make sure you get a good one..) So slap me down... *devil*

I recently had a choice of many different machines from ReVox, Studer, Ampex, Teac, Otari, etc. and the seller strongly recommended the Otari as a simple, no fuss, good sounding reliable machine. The seller who is a close friend has always given me good advice. I got an MX-55T-M which is not the most form factor friendly machine out there, but it sounds really good and works like a dream. I'm planning to acquire a second Otari soon, and it will probably be the aforementioned MX-5050 BIII. (I have choice of BII/BIII and will make the choice based on overall condition.)